Return to Colorado

Annie and I arrived in Colorado after five days on the road, mostly in Utah. We spent three days visiting Lynne and exploring the Rocky Mountains, and then she flew home and I continued to Fort Collins to visit my friend Nancy and her family.

August 7 – A Long Day

We left our hotel in Utah at 7:00 a.m. and met Lynne at the Crooked Creek Saloon in Fraser at 6:30 pm. (See Southern Utah entry for what we saw along the way). It was benefit night with a portion of the proceeds going to the library where Lynne volunteers. We ate dinner on the outside deck and listened to a band.

August 8 – Fraser

For our first day at 8500’ (2600 meters) we took a short hike, 3-4 miles, along a ridge south towards Winter Park and back along the river. Spending the last four days above 5000’ made it easier than it would have been for us sea-level dwellers. There are patches of snow on Byers Peak and some of the other nearby mountain tops. 

Afterwards, Lynne took us on a driving tour of Fraser and Winter Park, including a stop at the cemetery where her father was recently buried. We ate lunch on the patio at The Peak, a brew pub which I’ve frequented on each visit. After a couple samples, I settled on Elk Bugle ESB as my favorite beer. Annie and Lynne enjoyed their IPA’s, and we all liked our salads. Sage is becoming a very mellow restaurant dog; she lay down and slept. 

We stopped at the grocery store on our way back and then watched a thunderstorm come through. Annie decided to take an introvert’s break and stayed in, while Lynne and I took a bottle of red wine and container of sushi to the Rendezvous Event Center in Winter Park for a free outdoor concert, by a rock & roll revival band called Wyatt Lowe and the Mayhem Kings.  Canvas chairs kept us off the wet lawn, but it was chilly after the sun dropped. 

August 9 – Columbine Lake

We picked up Lynne’s friend Jill and drove on a bumpy dirt road for about an hour to the Junco Lake trailhead. From there we took the seven mile out-and-back trail, eight according to our phones, to Columbine Lake. The skies were mostly blue and we had a grand time. Sage smiled as she ran free, except when I leashed her along the meadows where we spotted a moose. (Another hiker told us there was a youngster too, but we didn’t see it). I enjoyed conversing with wonderful women, taking pictures of cascades along the trail, and eating lunch overlooking the lake. It’s a good thing I sprayed on herbal insect repellent, both Lynne and Annie came back with mosquito bites. 

Back at the condo, we showered and rested before heading out for cocktails at a new distillery in Fraser, Mexican food, and more outdoor music, a couple singer guitarists at Cooper Creek Square.

August 10 – Rocky Mountain National Park

I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve driven along Trail Ridge Road and I never tire of the views. Lynne had to work today, so Annie and I got an early start and headed up into the park. Shortly after we entered, once again enjoying my lifetime pass, we spotted cars at the side of the road. Sure enough, there were moose in the meadow, a male and female. They were the most active moose I’ve ever seen and at one point the male headed in our direction. I was debating whether running behind a tree would help if he got any closer. 

After that, we stopped at a half dozen vista points, taking pictures under grey skies with occasional rain drops. We saw two herds of elk, one near the Alpine Visitor center, at the top of the stairs and another near the Rock Cut pullover. One marmot was licking the rocks at Forest View. We stopped at a dispensary in Tabernash to look at growing marijuana plants on our way back to Fraser, which we reached shortly after noon. We ate leftovers for lunch, stopped by to visit Lynne, and lingered around the condo all afternoon watching the weather switch from sun to hail and back.

August 11 – Goodbye to Annie and Lynne

We gave Lynne goodbye hugs and drove to the Denver airport where I dropped Annie off to fly home, wrapping up a rich, fun-filled week. I continued north to Fort Collins to visit my longest friend, Nancy, her husband Steve, and son Zach. Sage loves the large lawn in back of their home and quickly tired out Bella, the resident boxer. 

August 12-15 – Fort Collins

I spent a relaxing four days hanging out in Fort Collins. On the first day, I posted my Utah blog entry, paddle boarded with Zach, and enjoyed a steak salad – Steve’s barbeque with Zach’s Caesar salad. Nancy returned from the Bay Area later that evening; she’s been there helping take care of her father’s estate. The next couple days were primarily spent shopping, sewing, eating, and watching a bit of television (rare for me). I heard about a group of teenage boys who climbed all 58 of Colorado’s 14er’s (peaks over 14,000’, 427 meters), and a state record-breaking softball-sized hail that fell that week. On my last day, Nancy and I took a day trip. We went for a scenic drive though Gold Hill to Nederland where we had lunch, then a detour to Boulder, since Boulder Canyon Drive was closed for road improvements following past floods and rock slides. We were one of the first on the road when it reopened at 2:00 so we could visit Boulder Falls. Afterwards, we stopped at the DushanbeTeahouse for a refreshing ice tea and snack – the “Summer Peach Bruschetta” was delicious! Back in Fort Collins, we joined Steve and Zach for a sushi dinner, and I packed up, ready for the third leg of my three-week road 

Southern Utah

I’m on the road again, heading to Colorado with Sage, my almost two-year-old Border Collie, and my friend Annie. After driving though Yosemite and Nevada, we reached Utah, where we spent a few days enjoying red rock country. Annie and I are both early birds who like to hike and take pictures, so we traveled well together.

August 3 – Drive to Tonopah

I picked Annie up from an East Bay BART station around 7:30 am and we essentially spent the whole day driving to Tonopah Nevada, stopping along the way to take pictures, eat a picnic lunch, and play fetch with Sage. The car temp reached 99oF (37oC) so we were grateful for air conditioning.

August 4 – Drive to Escalante, Utah

We drove most of the day, with a few scenic stops along the way. In Rachel, a town of 50, they are anxiously awaiting the arrival of thousands of visitors seeking to get into Area 51, a gathering promoted as a hoax which they hope will not materialize. 

It started to rain a bit after we drove through Red Canyon, and on the way from Bryce to Escalante we saw many lightning bolts. My tire air pressure warning came on shortly before we reached Escalante. I was worried after experiencing a flat tire in Iceland, but it turned out to be low pressure in one tire. 

We checked into our tiny cabin with bunk beds – the only place available by the time Annie and I set dates for our trip. Fortunately, we didn’t see the grumpy women who checked us in after that evening; everyone else we encountered was friendly, especially the young women at the café with more energy than a Border Collie. She gave us great sightseeing tips. We went across the street and ate dinner at an outside patio; the rain and wind stayed away.

August 5 – Devils Garden

We ate breakfast at the tiny café adjacent to our cabins, then headed down Hole-in-the-Rock road within the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. This dirt road was in good shape considering the recent rains. It was 13 miles to Devils Garden. We had a whole hour to explore this awesome collection of sculpted rocks before anyone else arrived, and Annie earned the nickname “Panorama Queen”. On our way back, we considered a detour to Cedar Wash Arch, but the road wasn’t passable. 

Back on Highway 12, an incredible scenic road, we headed north to the Escalante Trailhead, stopping at numerous overlooks to ooh and ahh. We hiked/scrambled up to see petroglyphs, but skipped hiking to a rock bridge since it would have involved multiple crossings of a very muddy river, still dropping from the flood that came through yesterday.

As we were leaving, a young backpacker, April, emerged from the trail. We gave her a ride back to town. She had spent two nights out, including a whole day watching the river rise and fall.  We ate a late lunch at the café, where I enjoyed a tasty beer: Kiitos Brewing Amber Ale. (I later tried one called Juicy IPA which I enjoyed in spite of the fact that I don’t tike IPAs). We rested a bit at our cabinette, then drove to Escalante Petrified Forest State Park for a very refreshing swim in the reservoir. Sage chased balls and sticks into the lake and stopped when her belly touched the water. I carried her in a couple times just to confirm she could swim. She immediately headed to shore, grabbing her ball along the way.

August 6 – Hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls. 

It’s a good thing we got an early start on this scenic hike along the Escalante River; it was 90oF (33oC) by the time we returned to the trailhead shortly after noon. The official brochure says this hike is six miles, but according to our phones it was over seven. The trail was red sand and rock with nice views of red cliffs. The falls were beautiful. The chilly water felt great on my feet and Sage found several willing stick throwers. Along the way we saw a variety of lizards, including one chased by a snake – it got away. Between the heat and all her running back and forth, Sage was exhausted by the time we were done; I have never seen her this tired. The iced beverages that awaited us in the car helped revive us.

Next we drove to Torrey, along the way the temperature dropped twenty-five degrees, the skies darkened, and rain started. We checked into our hotel early, using a remote entry system. It was very basic, but clean and spacious compared to the cabin. We ate a late lunch at local burger joint and retired to our room early. I spent most of my leisure time downloading and organizing photos. 

August 7 – Capitol Reef

We got an early start so we could take a short tour of Capitol Reef National Park on our way to Colorado. Even under overcast skies it was beautiful. I could easily spend days exploring this colorful landscape, filled with red-hued striated mountains. On our way out we stopped at the Gifford Farmhouse for fresh pies, filled with fruit from nearby orchards; they were still warm.

After a few more scenic stops, we spent the rest of the day driving, mostly on I-70. Our conversations covered many topics. The skies remained cloudy with periods of rain. The speed limit dropped from 80 to 75 when we crossed the state line. Goodbye Utah, Hello Colorado.

Colorado Road Trip

I’m about to head off on another road trip to Colorado, so I figure I should post a few pictures from last year’s trip first. 

July 2018

I usually fly when I go to Colorado to visit friends, but drove this time so I could bring Sage, my then nine-month old Border Collie. Susan joined me for the first half of my two-week trip, to Fraser where we visited Lynne and enjoyed short hikes and beautiful views. I continued on to Fort Collins where Nancy taught me how to make quilt.

July 12 – Dive to Tonopah, Nevada

It was an overcast day as we drove through Yosemite and by the time we got through the mountains it was raining, so we skipped stopping at Mono Lake and drove through heavy rain with thunder in the distance.

July 13 – Drive to Escalante, Utah

A long drive with various scenic stops. At one point we were so low on gas in the middle of nowhere that we turned off the air conditioner. We made with a fraction of a gallon to spare.

July 14 – Scenic Drive into Colorado

We took a short hike in Escalante Petrified Forest State Park, followed by a gorgeous drive on Hwy 12 up past Boulder and through Capital Reef National Park. The rain followed us, but we stayed dry. We spent the night in New Castle.

July 15–18  

We drove to Fraser, CO where we visited Lynne and her family, and took several hikes in the beautiful Rockies.

July 19 – Drive to Fort Collins  

Susan and I took a final hike, a short round trip to a waterfall. Then, after leaving a few things behind for Lynne to bring home for us, we crammed four people and luggage into my small car, a Subaru Cross Trek. I took Lynne and her dad, Jim, to a hotel near the Denver airport, they were heading out on a trip the next day, and then dropped off Susan for her flight home.

July 20-23 – Sewing, Sewing, Sewing

My friend, Nancy, an awesome quilter, taught me how to make one. I bought everything I needed, including a sewing machine, and nearly finished making one for a queen-size bed, not a small project for a new quilter.  

July 24-26 – Drive from Fort Collins to Home

After a final walk along the canal, now a bit muddy from last night’s rain, I packed up the car and headed home. Google estimated six hours to Vernal; it took me about seven and a half with a handful of brief stops, including a grassy park in Rock Springs, Wyoming for a bit of fetch with Sage. The final segment of our first day, south on 191, was the most scenic. After checking into the Sage Motel, we took a hot walk around Vernal, it was about 98oF (37oC) and I ate dinner at the outdoor patio of a brew pub. 

The next day, I drove to Elko. Listening to books on tape kept me entertained, including Call the Midwife. I headed out early the next morning and reached home in the afternoon of the third day.

Art Camp

June 9-16, 2019

I recently returned from my third year at Feather River Art Camp, rooming with Chris again. It’s great fun to spend a week in the mountains creating art with fellow campers. I started each day with Thai Chi exercises, spent the mornings in my core class (encaustics this year, mosaics last), then explored various workshops and hikes in the afternoons and evenings. The dining hall food was much improved, and I learned to play Mexican Train and Rummikub so I’m ready for game nights.

La Jolla

Though I still need to catch up on trips from last year, I’m posting this one now since it’s quick and easy.

September 25-28, 2018

I took a short trip to visit my friend Dede. We realized that it’s been four years since my last visit, too long. As usual it was very relaxing. I took daily walks on the beach and enjoyed wearing sandals.

Tuesday

Dede picked me up from the airport in the early afternoon. As soon as we got to her home, I headed to the beach. It’s about a 15-minute walk down and a 20-minute walk back up. I’m glad I went since this was the only sunny day I had at the beach during my visit. There is almost as much fog here as at home, but it’s warmer.

When I got back we enjoyed dinner on her patio. Her friend Victor barbequed ribs, and we enjoyed a bottle of red wine. For me, it’s a luxury to be able to eat outdoors in the evening.

Wednesday

 I took one of Dede’s three dogs, 90-pound Buddy, for a walk on the beach in the morning.  Dogs are only allowed before 9:00 a.m. and after 6:00 pm. Though he’s huge, he’s well trained and easy to walk. I’m not used to male dogs and counted 16 leg lifts at bushes and trees on our way up and down the hill.

In the afternoon, Dede and I took Buddy and a Ellie May, a small fluffy white dog, for a visit to a memory care center. Though some of the residents were not responsive, most perked up and were happy to pet them. When she’s a bit older, I’m hoping to train Sage, my almost year-old Border Collie, to be a therapeutic visitation dog.

Dede’s friend John later joined us for a barbeque at the beach. We had hoped for a nice sunset, but no luck. Given that it was mid-week and overcast we virtually had the beach to ourselves.  Salmon, corn on the cob, salad, and boysenberry pie, yum!

Thursday

We spent the whole morning glued to the tube watching the Kavanaugh hearing. Sadly things have not has changed much in the 36 years since Anita Hill bravely came forward. I broke away to take a long, leisurely barefoot stroll along the beach before attending a Veterans for Peace protest. They would like to see the Miramar airshow discontinued since it glorifies war.

Friday

I took Buddy for one last beach walk, then packed up and headed to the airport. My flight was delayed slightly due to fog in San Francisco, but was otherwise uneventful.

Bryce and Zion

After Switzerland, I told myself that I would stay home and not travel for a while, but when Anne invited me to visit Bryce and Zion, I couldn’t resist. Though I’d been to both of these places, I‘ve been craving a return to red rock country. It was Anne’s first visit to both national parks and my first use of my Senior Parks Pass. Though I’m not quite ready to consider myself a senior, it saved us $30 per park. I’m glad to say that Anne was just as enamored of these colorful parks as I am.

Wednesday, Oct 18, 2017 – Getting to Bryce

We met at the airport and flew to Las Vegas, where we picked up and upgraded (from economy, which should be called sub-compact, to compact) our rental car; I’m the designated driver. It was overcast. We stopped in Mesquite for lunch; I ate my packed salad outside a fast food joint. We overshot the Bryce turnoff and ended up seeing a slice of Cedar Breaks on an alternate route. We got to park in time for a scenic stroll from Sunset to Sunrise Point before the sun set.

From there, it was a 15-20 minute drive to Tropic. We stayed at a place called Bryce Valley Lodging, best described as a collection of cabinettes lined up on a gravel parking lot, reminiscent at drive-in movie theaters (remember those?). We walked across the street to Hustler’s, where I consumed BBQ chicken, sweet potato fries, and soggy vegetables. 

Thursday, Oct 19 – Peep-a-Boo Loop

The sound of rain before dawn caused me to turn off the alarm, there wouldn’t be a sunrise today, at least not a colorful one. Fortunately, the rain didn’t last long, and we were able to do our planned hike (the one I took four years ago with no card in my camera).  The Queens Garden – Peep-a-Boo – Navajo loop is about seven miles; it took us five hours, mostly because we kept stopping to gawk and take pictures of the fantastical hoodoos.

We were tired afterwards, no longer acclimatized to hiking in the 8000-9000’ range (2400-2700 meters), so we found coffee for Anne at the general store, not the lodge as we first guessed. We skipped stopping at vista points and headed back to Tropic for an early dinner at Hustler’s. Afterwards a couple cats followed me around while I photographed sunset; there’s a nice view of the Grand Staircase out back.

Friday, Oct 20 – Bryce Sunrise to Zion Canyon

After convincing one of the cats that it couldn’t stay in our cabin, we drove back into Bryce to view the sunrise from Sunset Point. We stopped at Ruby’s Inn for breakfast after exiting the park, arriving early enough to beat the line. I ate everything I usually avoid: eggs, toast, and bacon. It’s been decades since I’ve ordered bacon!

We headed back east for a few minutes and reentered the park to hike appropriately named Mossy Cave. There were some nice red rocks and a small waterfall.

I skipped stopping at Checkboard Mesa after we entered Zion, regretting it when a herd of Bighorn Sheep walked by.

We found parking shortly before the tunnel and walked along the road to the Canyon Rim trailhead. I’ve done this three-mile hike many times over the years and still enjoy it. I’ve come to associate this trail with lizards, and sure enough I saw one this time too.

A long stretch of highway towards the end of Springdale is currently one-way, due to repaving or something. After a short wait we reached our hotel, where we parked and left if for the rest of the day. There is a free shuttle that runs through town, up to the park entrance. The stop near us, #7, was closed due to the construction so we walked to #6 and then kept on walking all the way to the park. Along the way, we stopped at a market to pick up breakfast and snack food, ate lunch at an outdoor table, and sampled beers at the Zion Canyon Brewing Company, licensed as a restaurant, not a bar. (There are no bars in Springdale). This meant that we could not order alcohol without food, so though not hungry we ordered an appetizer of hummus with veggies, with I promptly consumed. In Utah, draft beer can only be 4% (bottled beers can be stronger). We tried three, purchasing six-ounce samples since free ones aren’t allowed; they ranged from undrinkably bitter to “just right”.

We took the shuttle back to stop #6 and walked to the Quality Inn with a room bigger than our cabin in Tropic. I was too full to join Anne for dinner so she headed out on her own, returning quickly to report that the place across the street was too fancy and expensive; instead she snacked on munchies we’d picked up at the market.

Saturday, Oct 21 – Angels Landing

When we were planning this trip, I asked Anne if she’d be interested in hiking in The Narrows; she said absolutely not. I next suggested Angels Landing, while warning  her of the sheer drop offs. She surprised me and said yes. Both a little nervous after all the hype, we agreed to go and see how far we’d get.

We drove into park, parked at visitors center, and caught an 8:00 shuttle to The Grotto, our trailhead. We crossed the bridge and took the West Rim trail, zig-zagging up the cliff-side. It felt good to be hiking; I was refreshed and even Walter’s 21 wiggles didn’t seem difficult. From Scouts Landing (where Karen and I turned back four years ago) to the top was not as scary as it looked. Chains were installed in all difficult parts and we were early enough that peak crowds hadn’t yet arrived. The up and downhill climbers patiently waited for each other, passing in bunches. (Reminder for next time: avoid weekends). We spent a half hour at the top, which was larger than I expected, and though “only” 5,790 feet (1,760 m) the view is vast. By the time we returned to Scouts Landing for lunch, the stream of hikers arriving was backing up and they were starting to pass each other on the narrower, scary sections.

We considered taking the Riverwalk to the beginning of The Narrows, but were too tired to get off bus. Plus we didn’t want to risk having to stand for the 40-minute ride back to the Visitor Center, as could be the case with later buses. Instead we returned to Brew Pub and ordered a couple pints of Octoberfest, the beer we liked best yesterday. This time we split a salad (mixed greens, apples, cranberries, walnuts, cilantro dressing) – delicious! We walked back into the park to retrieve our car. After a rest and shower, we walked to Jacks Sport Bar for dinner – greasy sandwich and a bitter beer.

Sunday, Oct 22 – Weeping Rock

Anne joined me for sunrise. We again parked at the Visitor Center, this time catching a 7:15 shuttle to Canyon Junction, where we hung out for an hour watching the peaks around us light up. Back on the shuttle, we got off at Zion Lodge where we had breakfast (scrambled eggs and rye toast). Afterwards, we crossed the road and hiked to Lower, Middle, and Upper Emerald Pools. The lower, with water dripping over the rim, was my favorite. On our way back down, we turned onto Kayenata trail and walked above the river to The Grotto and then along the road to Weeping Rock. Only shuttle buses and bicyclists are allowed this far in the park, so we pretty much had it this scenic stretch to ourselves. We took the short walk up a paved path to Weeping Rock, where water seeps out of the sandstone and drips along a stretch of the cliff. We road the shuttle to the last stop, Temple of Sinawava, and once again considered taking the Riverwalk to the beginning of The Narrows, but we turned back in less than a mile, both too tired to want to walk further. My phone says we covered nine miles today, further than yesterday’s eight plus.

Back at the Brew Pub, we enjoyed our pints of Octoberfest and split the same salad as yesterday. This time it took 25 minutes to get through the construction backup. We rested at the hotel – I downloaded images, took a short nap, and showered, then risked the traffic and drove to The Spotted Dog for dinner. Fortunately, when we called earlier we were able to get reservations right after opening. It was the meal of this trip – red trout, veggies, and a flowerless chocolate dessert. Yum.

Monday, October 23 – Back Home

We ate the boring free breakfast and headed back to Las Vegas, detouring to the see more fascinating red rocks at Valley of Fire, Nevada’s oldest state park. It looks like the gods and goddesses have been playing with clay. Google got us to the off-off site car rental dealer from where we got a van ride to the off-site car rental center. Eventually reaching our terminal, we ate a late lunch before flying home, arriving a little, but not much, behind schedule.

Since my credit card was suspended, due to fraud detected while I was in Utah, I couldn’t use Lyft. Supershuttle had no shuttles so they sent me to Go Lorries. If you don’t mind being uncomfortably crammed in with others and wandering willy-nilly around the city for an hour or two, this is the way to go. I jumped out in the Castro and took a bus home from there. On the positive side, their vans are newer and don’t rattle like Supershuttle’s.

My roommate, Linda, shared her food so I didn’t have to go to the market for dinner. I was especially grateful since I had only a few hours to pack for my next adventure.  The cats and I enjoyed company for one night.

Zermatt and Zürich

Ahh, my computer is finally functioning well enough to sort photos again (a long frustrating saga). Here’s my last entry for the trip I took to the Alps last summer. Eventually I’ll catch up on my other travels.

Last summer after hiking part of the Haute Route through the Alps, Lynne, Hennie, and I headed to Zermatt where we enjoyed a series of gorgeous day hikes without the burden of  heavy backpacks. Sibylle and Carmen joined us for a couple days and when Hennie headed home, Lynne and I joined our Swiss friends in Zürich.

2017, 31 July – Zermatt

We started our day with breakfast at our hotel in Sion – chocolate croissants, smoked salmon, and cheese, yum. It was a short walk to the train station where we caught the first of two trains to Zermatt, arriving before noon. Our hotel, Alphubel, was perfectly located near the center of town. We had lunch overlooking the main street, Bahnhofstrasse – carrot ginger soup and a half sandwich, then explored the town. The goats came through at 3:30 and the Lindt store had many more flavors than I’ve seen at home. Tables were being set up everywhere in preparation for Swiss National Day, lots of food and drink. We opted to buy food at the co-op grocery store and corner sausage stand, and ate dinner in our room, where we watched a thunderstorm and heard an accordion playing for hours.

1 August – Gornergrat

Our hotel breakfast included cook-your-own hard-boiled eggs in a contraption we hadn’t seen before, ours were underdone. By 8:00 we are on the Gornergrat train. It took about a half-hour to get the top, where we were rewarded with awesome views of the glacier and surrounding peaks before they became covered with clouds. It was windier with less snow and more haze than when I was last here, in September 2014. We hiked down to Riffleberg, ate lunch on the deck with great views, then continued down to Riffelalp, steeper and less scenic than the earlier portion. The Matterhorn tried on variety of different cloud caps before hiding entirely.

It was still mostly sunny when we reached town around 2:00. We stopped at the market and took a brief rest in our rooms (I shared one with Lynne, and Hennie had her own), then toured the Matterhorn Museum. There was an interesting new exhibit about the first ascent of this famous peak, in 1865, on which four climbers died, and a very beautiful movie. I picked up a mediocre crepe along the way. With our balcony door open, we heard more fireworks than the previous night, and the accordion again in between thunderstorms. We stayed up later there than usual, until about 10:30, to watch the main fireworks out our window.

2 August – Klein Matterhorn (a.k.a. Matterhorn Glacier Paradise)

It was Hennie’s turn to be sick today, so Lynne and I took the cable car up to Klein Matterhorn, the Little Matterhorn. I’m sure early climbers would be shocked to see a major cable car station up this high. It was windy and cold with lots of snow. People were skiing and suiting up with crampons to climb nearby peaks. We toured the ice cave then took the cable back down to Trockener and from there hiked to Schwarzee. The retreating glacier provided a lunar landscape; sadly I fear the Swiss glaciers will be gone in my lifetime. Clouds played with the shadows on the surrounding mountains. We found the perfect lunch spot, a red bench above Schwarzee, wow what a view! We enjoyed a beer at the restaurant, then caught the cable car back to town. After a shower and brief rest, we did a bit of souvenir shopping and picked up food for dinner. Hennie was well enough to join us on our small balcony.

3 August – Connected with Sibylle & Carmen

We puttered around town, then met Sibylle and Carmen arriving on the 11:13 train. Lynne and Hennie headed to the Schwarzee cable car for a hike up in the hills, while I went to lunch with my Swiss friends. Our destination turned out to be a couple miles uphill in Findeln, a lovely spot for a tasty meal. We took a longer, scenic route down, nice except for one steep rocky portion. I barely had time to get to my hotel and shower, before it was time to meet for dinner. My lamb ravioli with veggies was delicious, one of the best meals on this trip. (Carmen knows all the best spots to dine).

4 August – Five Lakes Hike to Fluhalp

Lynne joined Sibylle and Carmen on a longer ridge hike to Fluhalp, our destination hut, while Hennie and I took a somewhat easier route past five lakes. There were lots of ups and downs; it was hot when we were in the direct sun. The first two lakes, both manmade, were not as scenic as the others. We saw lots of marmots along the way. We ate lunch on the shore of Stellisee, our final lake, then Hennie headed down to the cable car to begin her trip home, while I headed up to Fluhalp where I enjoyed an Aperol Spritz while waiting for the other three to finish their beers up at Rothorn and join me.

5 August – Suspension Bridge

After breakfast, we headed off in two directions, with Sibylle and Carmen taking a longer route (of course). Lynne and I hiked down to Blauherd, stopping at Stellisee to admire the reflections in the lake. It was our clearest and hottest day yet. We took the cable car and funicular down to town, stopped at tourist information to buy train tickets, then picked up Sibylle and Carmen’s bags from their hotel. I was craving another sausage, but the vendor wasn’t open yet. We caught the train to Randa where we tried to open the wrong door and missed our stop. We hopped off at the next station and returned. We couldn’t find any luggage lockers, so we talked a proprietor of a hotel and café into holding them for us. Before setting off on our hike, I ordered a “chicken sandwich” which turned out to be a piece of processed ham on a slice of bread.

Our goal was to meet Carmen and Sibylle at the newly opened suspension bridge. It was a relentless hour and a half uphill, with many switchbacks. We walked back and forth across the bridge a couple times, but missed them. The hike down is a bit quicker. We regained cell reception back at the hotel/café and let them know where we were. They arrived just as we were finishing our draft beers.

The train ride to Zürich via Visp took about three hours. I ordered a salad on the train for dinner. We arrived about 8:00 pm, bought a 24-hour bus pass, and then went to pick up the key to “our” apartment. Sibylle’s friend, Anya, was staying at her friend’s house while recovering from hip surgery (where she could use an elevator rather than stairs), so she was kind enough to let us stay at her apartment while we were in Zürich. Thank you Anya!

I recognized the route from my prior visit as we walked back beneath an elevated roadway and crossed the river to our apartment, not far from where Sibylle lives. I was sweaty, wiped out, completely wilted by the time I showered and crashed into bed.

6 August – Spa Day

We enjoyed a nice slow morning, repacking our stuff, then walked over to Carmen and Sibylle’s for an outstanding brunch: eggs, rolls, yogurt, fruit, cheese. Then Lynne and I found our way to Thermalbad; next time I’ll know that it’s near Google. When I first told Lynne that I wanted to spend a half day at the spa, she almost chose not to join my, but she was hesitant to leave after three hours of steaming, scrubbing, soaking, and enjoying the rooftop view. I felt renewed!

We rejoined our friends and walked back to the spacious apartment where Anya is staying, in an industrial area that’s becoming residential. There we enjoyed a most memorable evening. Anya introduced me to watermelon and feta, with a light dressing and bit of mint, a delicious combination that I have since prepared at home. We ate, drank, talked, and laughed for hours. It was the most fun dinner of our trip.

7 August – Zürich

Sibylle took us by train up to an overlook above Zürich and were surprised to meet Carmen; she rode up on her bicycle. The Alps were hazy in the distance. Back in Zürich, Carmen’s sister Simon joined us for lunch. We did a bit of shopping and walked all over town, climbing up the steps in the church tower, touring the campus where Sibylle went to school. Carmen rejoined us for dinner, delicious wok dishes, up on a hill above their apartment. It was a beautiful way to spent our last evening together, watching the moon rise over the city.

8 August – Back to London

Lynne and I took our dirty sheets and towels up to their apartment, said goodbye to Carmen, then took a tram with Sibylle to the train station. She headed off to work and we headed to the airport, catching an EasyJet to London. The rest of our trip has already been covered in an earlier post. Thank you both for a wonderful time. I hope to see you again soon.