Monthly Archives: September 2023

London

I spent five days touring London with Susan. We visited five museums, saw three musicals, and walked almost as far per day as I did in Switzerland. It was sunny and hot; the highs were 85+^oF (30+^o C), quite a change from the grey drizzle I’ve experienced in the past.

Sunday, 3 September – Fly to London, walk to Hayward Gallery

Our flight from Zurich landed at 8:30. From Heathrow, we took a train to Paddington, then a taxi to our hotel. Our driver was woman driver, a rare event. We checked our bags at the hotel and walked along the Thames to reach the Black Penny where we ate a late breakfast. We then visited the Hayward Gallery to see an exhibit titled “Dear Earth” in which multiple artists responded to climate change.

We got to our room at the Park Plaza Westminster Bridge in the late afternoon. It’s a modern building filled with more business men than tourists. The walls are black walls and corridors dark. Our desk had a bank of plug labeled UK, Euro, and US, fortunate for me since I didn’t remember where I packed my UK converter. We ate a light dinner at one of the hotel restaurants and went to bed early.

Monday, 4 September – Two National Museums and Les Mis

We walked to Covent Garden and had a yummy breakfast at Café de Provence. The streets were filled with commuters and Susan was nearly hit by bicycles a couple times. We next walked to Trafalgar Square, circling the fountains and monuments while waiting for the National Portrait Gallery to open at 10:30. Entry to the gallery is free but they charge for special shows. Susan chose to pay for the McCartney exhibit while I took a 45-minute overview tour which highlighted a couple pieces on each of the galleries three floors. I took a quick walk through after my tour and reconnected with Susan.

By the time we walked next door to the National Gallery, Trafalgar Square was filled with tourists and noisy performers. We ate salads for lunch downstairs in the cafe, then viewed all open galleries (1-8 were closed).

We took our first ride on the Underground back to a stop near our hotel. We didn’t need to buy a ticket, just tapped our credit card for entry and exit (I hear a similar entry process is coming to the Bay Area soon). The system automatically stops charging us if we hit the cost for a day pass. We stopped at a small organic store on our way back where I bought fruit and cookies.

After a short rest, we ate dinner again at the hotel (splitting tuna, salad, and asparagus, all yummy), and took the tube from Waterloo to Piccadilly Circus, and walked through a small Chinatown to the Sondheim Theatre to see Les Misérables. Though it’s a sad subject for a musical, the show was outstanding with great singers and memorable sets, one of the best theatrical performances I’ve seen. We took the wrong exit from the Waterloo station on our way back and walked too far on dark, deserted streets back to our hotel.

Tuesday, 5 September – Buckingham Palace, Saatchi Gallery, and another musical

We walked to the Old Queen Street Café for breakfast, not as good as yesterday’s, then up along St. James’s Park to Buckingham Place, and down to the Saatchi Gallery, where we saw an exhibit titled “Civilization: The Way we Live Now”, presented in nine chapter with titles such as Hive, Alone Together, and Rupture. It made me fearful for the crowded future our species is hurling towards.

We ate lunch at a café near the gallery, then, exhausted, took the Underground from Sloane Square back to Westminster for a short rest and shower before popping back on the tube to attend the Evensong performance at St. Paul’s Cathedral. It was a bit too religious for my taste, but the cathedral was impressive. I had once considered climbing the 528 steps up to the top of the dome, but in the heat this was unthinkable.

We took the tube to the Barbicon Center, where we had a mediocre dinner and saw “A Strange Loop”, a show about a gay man struggling to write a play about a gay man, which I’m sure we would both have enjoyed more if we weren’t dozing off after our long day. I iced my foot when we got back to the hotel around 23:00. The injury I had to it a few weeks before my trip has been aggravated by all my walking.

Wednesday, 6 September – Kew Gardens and Operation Mincemeat

Breakfast at hotel. If we had remembered that it was included with our room, we would have eaten here yesterday. Kew Gardens, about an hour tube ride away, was a welcome quiet break from noisy London, though we walked further than anticipated and did not have the time for sketching we had planned to do. I enjoyed climbing spiral staircases inside the green houses, though it was steamy hot at the top of the Palm House.

We got back in time for a short rest and shower before catching a taxi to dinner at Fishworks in Covent Gardens. I had a delicious tuna, Susan fish and chips, and we split broccoli(ini) and green beans. From there it was a short walk to the small Fortune Theatre where we saw Operation Mincemeat; our seats weren’t the best, but this musical play about a British operation during WWII was great.

Thursday, 7 September – Tate Modern

Still fighting off an intestinal issue, Susan decided she was too tired to go to Greenwich as had been our plan for the day. Though I’m sorry that’s her reason, my sore foot and tired feet were relieved. Instead we had a leisurely morning and walked to the Tate Modern, where we spent a couple hours viewing art, and did not see it all.

After a late lunch at a pub, we walked back to the organic store we visited a few days ago. The flat peaches and chocolate ginger cookies I got earlier were so delicious that I wanted more. We skipped dinner and packed.

Friday, 8 September – Departing London

I didn’t sleep well, perhaps worried I’d miss my 3:15 alarm. I quickly dressed and departed, leaving Susan sleeping; her flight home was later that day. I listened to the talking elevator one last time: “doors closing, lift going down, doors opening”. My van ride to the Luton Airport took more than an hour on mostly deserted streets. I flew on Wizz, a budget airline that charges for water, because it was the only one I could find that would get me to Athens in time for dinner with friends I would be meeting for a sailing trip.

Zürich

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September 2023 – I spent a too-brief three days in Zurich visiting my friend Sibylle and the beautiful Swiss countryside.

Thursday, 31 August – Spa

We got up at 3:45 in Athens, 3:45 to catch a taxi to airport for a 7:00 flight to Zurich. It took a full hour to check bags and get through security (no TSA pre-check here). We caught a train from the airport to the Zurich train station, then a taxi to our hotel near the Opera House. They held our bags while we enjoyed a spa day.

We walked along the lake and uphill to the Thermalbad, a spa built in an old brewery. It was my third visit. There are nine stations including steam rooms, a salt scrub, and a large jacuzzi pool, plus an infinity pool on the roof. We emerged hours later feeling very relaxed, and strolled back to our hotel.

Susan panicked when she saw the size of our room and got us an upgrade, for an extra 100 Euros per day, to a very nice large room on the 5^th floor with AC and a balcony. I was too tired for dinner, so I got take out broccoli soup from Tidbits, a vegetarian restaurant around the corner from our hotel while Susan ate at a restaurant on the corner.

Friday, 1 September – Walk above Zurich

We bought 24-hour tickets and took the tram across town to meet Sibylle for a delicious breakfast at Café des Ami. Sibylle, the daughter I never had, refers to me as her Hippie Mom. (She lived with me in San Francisco for a year and a half a decade or so back). After breakfast, Susan went to wander the town while Sibylle and I took the train for a couple stops southeast of the city. After an uphill climb through an upscale neighborhood, we met Carmen, her partner, and Loa, their Bermese Mountain Dog. From there we took a very pleasant downhill hike through Elefantenbach Ravine, along a cascade-filled stream. Our walk brought us down to the lake east of Opera House.

I reconnected with Susan for a rest and shower while Sibylle went shopping for groceries. Later we took a tram back to her neighborhood and enjoyed a delicious home-cooked Indian dinner. Her friends Anja and Claudia, and downstairs neighbor Heidi joined us on the balcony where we watched a nearly full moon rise over the neighboring apartment buildings.

Saturday, 2 September – Lake Walensee

Both Susan and Carmen decided to skip our planned excursion to Lake Walensee, so I caught the tram to go meet Sybille. Unfortunately, I did not realize that the departure stop for the 2 was not the same as the 4 and I overshot by many stops. It was a bit confusing to figure out where I was, especially without WiFi or reliable cellular service, but I finally connected with Sibylle on the phone and arranged a new rendezvous location.

It was about an hour drive to Walensee, one of the deepest lakes in Switzerland. Sibylle found one of the few spots that would let us park for more than three hours and we headed out along the trail that boarders the north side lake. It was paved in the beginning and we encountered a few cars, then a dirt trail began. I’m glad Carmen lent me her trekking poles, as the trail became a rocky and steep as we approached Seerenbach Falls one of the tallest waterfalls in the country. It was beautiful. Our initial plan was to hike about a quarter of the way around the lake, to Quinten, and take a boat back, but we realized we didn’t have time to do that and get back in time for our planned evening activities. So we turned around and walked back to a restaurant where we shared a couple tasty salads in a courtyard above the lake.

We encountered commute traffic coming back into Zurich and I barely made it back to the Tissot store in time to purchase the watch I eyed yesterday. (My prior one went missing a month or so ago and I missed having one). I took a tram back to our hotel for a quick shower, no time for a nap, before Susan and I headed to the Kunsthaus museum. It was museum night and many would remain open to 2:00. We spent a quick hour and a half exploring this delightful museum then took a tram to Landesmuseum for a farewell Aperol Spritz with Sibylle and Carmen, joined by her mom and sister, Simon, who I met on a prior visit. It was a pleasant way to end a too-short visit. We got to bed around 23:00. My phone told me I walked 23,000 steps about a thousand more than yesterday.

Sunday, 3 September

We were up early once again, and got picked up by a taxi at 4:30, to catch a 7:00 flight to London.

Delphi

Tinos

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August 2023 – I spent a week with my painting workshop on Tinos, the windiest of the Cyclades Islands. While cooler than Athens, it was still hot by my standards and I spent most of the time in capris and flip flops. In addition to painting, we visited Pyrgus, a village on the opposite end of the island and I took daily walks along the shore.

Wednesday, 23 August – Ferry to Tinos

After a tasty fish lunch in Rafina, we boarded a large ferry for the two-hour ride to Tinos. I wish airline seats were as comfortable. I walked up to the deck a couple times, but it was way too windy to stay long. A bus was waiting at the Tinos port for our 15-minute drive to our lodging, Porto Raphael in Agios Ioannis.

Susan and are sharing a large room with a balcony overlooking the Aeronian sea. After getting settled, we joined the group for dinner at 7:30 (19:30). We have two large tables reserved for us in a shaded spot on the veranda. Here we ate all our meals. The breakfasts were at 8:00 buffet style; I had spanakopita and yogurt every day, and too many pastries. Lunches, at 1:30 (13:30), were light with bread, tziki, and delicious green salads, including one with shredded zucchini for which I now have the recipe. We had two entrée choices each evening, none very appealing, and all vegetables over cooked. It was a challenge to avoid nightshades. The sunsets were lovely.

Thursday, 24 August – Painting

A handful of us started sneaking out food with every meal for a mama kitty and her five kittens. They were ravenous. Some of the many cats on the island have clipped ears, indicating they have been neutered, but not many. When we left, we donated money for them.

Our routine most days was to work on one painting in the morning, another in the afternoon. I decided to start with a painting of the chapel. There was a shaded nook near it and this is where Doug and I set up, after collecting rocks to hold down our drop clothes and palette paper. I also hung a bag from my easel to keep it stable. While we were mostly protected from the wind, gusts were frequent. A few people painted on the veranda, while others painting outside their rooms.

In the afternoon, Susan and I painted on our balcony, also using rocks to keep things in place.

Friday, 25 August – Painting

I took a morning walk with Meghana, Jeanette, and Susan. We saw goats.

My painting suffered overnight. Apparently one of the workers, thrilled to see a painting of the chapel, picked it up and hugged it, getting paint on his shirt. It was then left on the ground and the wind brought in dirt. Fortunately, it was only the first layer, so I wiped off the dirt and continued. It was a bit cooler and windier than yesterday.

I took a short refreshing swim in the pool before lunch and a nap after. I painted later than yesterday, and had just enough time for a shower and cocktail before dinner. There I saw Shahrazad with her leg propped up on a chair. While walking down to the beach with Meghana, she slipped and twisted her ankle. She took a taxi to the emergency room and confirmed that it was broken. An appointment with the next day confirmed two breaks, and she was told that if she keeps all weight off it, she probably won’t need surgery.

Saturday, 26 August 26 – Pyrgos

I took a walk with Jeanette and Susan to the two beaches near us before breakfast. There are several restaurants and places to rent chairs and umbrellas, quiet in the morning, busy in the afternoons and evenings.

We took a field trip to Pyrgos, where we visited the Museum of Marble Crafts. There are many quarries in Greece, most of the marble is white or grey, but it is also found in a great variety of colors. We learned many techniques for splitting and transporting heavy blocks. While we were inside, it started to rain and the goats began to run down the mountain. They must have known a thunderstorm was coming. It was very loud and one lightning bolt hit the large crane outside the building. I’m glad we were indoors and not driving on a narrow, windy road when it hit.

The storm ended as we left the museum and we wandered around this cute town with narrow, twisting streets. We ate lunch at Dough and Shakers, specializing in pizza and cocktails. I opted for ravioli and a fancy drink, Chalepas (The Greatest Tinian Sculptor). I bought a metal fish to add to my growing collection of backyard art pieces. On the way back, I continued listening to an audible book, Circe, on the hour bus ride, hearing stories about the gods

I painted from 4:00-7:00 pm.

Sunday, 27 August – Painting

I was awakened early by flashes of lightening, and got up to watch the storm from our balcony. Susan and I met our walking buddies by the pool. The four of us wandered around by the rocks, then Meghana and I headed up the mountain. We took a higher road than last time and were able to see a bit more to the east.

I worked on my chapel painting in the morning. The mineral spirits we are using are not odorless and the fumes were bad in alcove. I stopped an hour before lunch so I had time for a very refreshing swim in the sea. It’s cooler today and still very windy (according to the weather app the wind is 15-25 mph with 35 mph gusts)

I spent a pleasant afternoon painting on our balcony until 7:00 pm, listening to Greek music drifting up from the beach bar.

Monday, 28 August – Final Painting Day

Meghana and I took our longest morning walk, going up and around the bend to the east where we could see another peninsula jutting into the sea. The light is beautiful at this time of day. There was almost no wind.

I painted in the morning, almost finishing my chapel painting and making good progress on the other. Lunch included fish for the first time, anchovies and sardines. Susan and Jenny skipped the group lunch and went to one of the restaurants near the beach for sea bream, our new favorite.

I took the afternoon off from painting and went for a wonderful swim in the sea and took a nap before joining the others for our critique. It was great to see such a diverse set of paintings, some finished, some in progress. While most used oil or acrylic, a couple painters chose watercolor. Several also had sketchbooks; I’m impressed by what some people can draw while standing up. (I was too busy painting to sketch this week).

There was a melancholy feel to dinner as we knew we would all be heading in different directions in the morning. I hope to see many in a future workshop.

Tuesday, 29 August – Farewell Tinos

I packed up my paintings, fortunately fairly dry thanks to the use of mineral spirts instead of linseed oil, plus the sun and wind. I wrapped them in wax paper and put them in a box I constructed in advance. Hopefully that will protect them as I continue with my trip.

Meghana and I took our morning walk up and around the little hill between beaches. After breakfast, Shahrazad was carried to an ambulance, and the rest of us boarded the bus back to port. (She was later taken on and off the ferry in a wheelchair; I admire her good spirts). A handful of us took a short walk through the town before boarding. Larry and Anastasia took a different ferry, heading for another island and a chance to relax without the need to keep track of 15 painters. A dozen of us ate lunch at the same restaurant as on our way out. They were out of the local fish I wanted to try so I had seabass and perfectly cooked vegetables. The proprietor called four cabs for us and we headed off in different directions.

Susan, Jenny and I shared one to our hotel, in a busier location than before. After a short break we walked briefly in the botanical garden, then caught a cab to the funicular which took us up to the top of Hill of Lycabettus, where we had a drink and watched the sunset. They both ordered food, but barely ate any, we were all still full from lunch.