August 2023 – I spent a week with my painting workshop on Tinos, the windiest of the Cyclades Islands. While cooler than Athens, it was still hot by my standards and I spent most of the time in capris and flip flops. In addition to painting, we visited Pyrgus, a village on the opposite end of the island and I took daily walks along the shore­.

Wednesday, 23 August – Ferry to Tinos

After a tasty fish lunch in Rafina, we boarded a large ferry for the two-hour ride to Tinos. I wish airline seats were as comfortable. I walked up to the deck a couple times, but it was way too windy to stay long. A bus was waiting at the Tinos port for our 15-minute drive to our lodging, Porto Raphael in Agios Ioannis.

Susan and are sharing a large room with a balcony overlooking the Aeronian sea. After getting settled, we joined the group for dinner at 7:30 (19:30). We have two large tables reserved for us in a shaded spot on the veranda.­ Here we ate all our meals. The breakfasts were at 8:00 buffet style; I had spanakopita and yogurt every day, and too many pastries. Lunches, at 1:30 (13:30), were light with bread, tziki, and delicious green salads, including one with shredded zucchini for which I now have the recipe. We had two entrée choices each evening, none very appealing, and all vegetables over cooked. It was a challenge to avoid nightshades. The sunsets were lovely.

Thursday, 24 August – Painting

A handful of us started sneaking out food with every meal for a mama kitty and her five kittens. They were ravenous. Some of the many cats on the island have clipped ears, indicating they have been neutered, but not many. When we left, we donated money for them.

Our routine most days was to work on one painting in the morning, another in the afternoon. I decided to start with a painting of the chapel. There was a shaded nook near it and this is where Doug and I set up, after collecting rocks to hold down our drop clothes and palette paper. I also hung a bag from my easel to keep it stable. While we were mostly protected from the wind, gusts were frequent. A few people painted on the veranda, while others painting outside their rooms.

In the afternoon, Susan and I painted on our balcony, also using rocks to keep things in place. 

Friday, 25 August – Painting

I took a morning walk with Meghana, Jeanette, and Susan. We saw goats.

My painting suffered overnight. Apparently one of the workers, thrilled to see a painting of the chapel, picked it up and hugged it, getting paint on his shirt. It was then left on the ground and the wind brought in dirt. Fortunately, it was only the first layer, so I wiped off the dirt and continued. It was a bit cooler and windier than yesterday.

I took a short refreshing swim in the pool before lunch and a nap after. I painted later than yesterday, and had just enough time for a shower and cocktail before dinner. There I saw Shahrazad with her leg propped up on a chair. While walking down to the beach with Meghana, she slipped and twisted her ankle. She took a taxi to the emergency room and confirmed that it was broken. An appointment with the next day confirmed two breaks, and she was told that if she keeps all weight off it, she probably won’t need surgery. 

Saturday, 26 August 26 – Pyrgos

I took a walk with Jeanette and Susan to the two beaches near us before breakfast. There are several restaurants and places to rent chairs and umbrellas, quiet in the morning, busy in the afternoons and evenings.

We took a field trip to Pyrgos, where we visited the Museum of Marble Crafts. There are many quarries in Greece, most of the marble is white or grey, but it is also found in a great variety of colors. We learned many techniques for splitting and transporting heavy blocks. While we were inside, it started to rain and the goats began to run down the mountain. They must have known a thunderstorm was coming. It was very loud and one lightning bolt hit the large crane outside the building. I’m glad we were indoors and not driving on a narrow, windy road when it hit. 

The storm ended as we left the museum and we wandered around this cute town with narrow, twisting streets. We ate lunch at Dough and Shakers, specializing in pizza and cocktails. I opted for ravioli and a fancy drink, Chalepas (The Greatest Tinian Sculptor). I bought a metal fish to add to my growing collection of backyard art pieces. On the way back, I continued listening to an audible book, Circe, on the hour bus ride, hearing stories about the gods

I painted from 4:00-7:00 pm.

Sunday, 27 August – Painting

I was awakened early by flashes of lightening, and got up to watch the storm from our balcony. Susan and I met our walking buddies by the pool. The four of us wandered around by the rocks, then Meghana and I headed up the mountain. We took a higher road than last time and were able to see a bit more to the east.

I worked on my chapel painting in the morning. The mineral spirits we are using are not odorless and the fumes were bad in alcove. I stopped an hour before lunch so I had time for a very refreshing swim in the sea. It’s cooler today and still very windy (according to the weather app the wind is 15-25 mph with 35 mph gusts)

I spent a pleasant afternoon painting on our balcony until 7:00 pm, listening to Greek music drifting up from the beach bar. 

Monday, 28 August – Final Painting Day

Meghana and I took our longest morning walk, going up and around the bend to the east where we could see another peninsula jutting into the sea. The light is beautiful at this time of day. There was almost no wind. 

I painted in the morning, almost finishing my chapel painting and making good progress on the other. Lunch included fish for the first time, anchovies and sardines. Susan and Jenny skipped the group lunch and went to one of the restaurants near the beach for sea bream, our new favorite. 

I took the afternoon off from painting and went for a wonderful swim in the sea and took a nap before joining the others for our critique. It was great to see such a diverse set of paintings, some finished, some in progress. While most used oil or acrylic, a couple painters chose watercolor. Several also had sketchbooks; I’m impressed by what some people can draw while standing up. (I was too busy painting to sketch this week). 

There was a melancholy feel to dinner as we knew we would all be heading in different directions in the morning. I hope to see many in a future workshop.

Tuesday, 29 August – Farewell Tinos

I packed up my paintings, fortunately fairly dry thanks to the use of mineral spirts instead of linseed oil, plus the sun and wind. I wrapped them in wax paper and put them in a box I constructed in advance. Hopefully that will protect them as I continue with my trip.

Meghana and I took our morning walk up and around the little hill between beaches. After breakfast, Shahrazad was carried to an ambulance, and the rest of us boarded the bus back to port. (She was later taken on and off the ferry in a wheelchair; I admire her good spirts). A handful of us took a short walk through the town before boarding. Larry and Anastasia took a different ferry, heading for another island and a chance to relax without the need to keep track of 15 painters. A dozen of us ate lunch at the same restaurant as on our way out. They were out of the local fish I wanted to try so I had seabass and perfectly cooked vegetables. The proprietor called four cabs for us and we headed off in different directions.

Susan, Jenny and I shared one to our hotel, in a busier location than before. After a short break we walked briefly in the botanical garden, then caught a cab to the funicular which took us up to the top of Hill of Lycabettus, where we had a drink and watched the sunset. They both ordered food, but barely ate any, we were all still full from lunch.