Tag Archives: Greece

Ionian Islands

September 8-16, 2023

As is often the case after a trip, I quickly returned to the rest of my life and got distracted from finishing my last blog entry for Greece, so here it is, more than a month after I got home.

After leaving London, I returned to Athens and spent a week on a 46’ sailboat exploring the Northern Ionian Islands with my friends Lynn, Sue, Monica, and Shoshana. On the boat, even more than the rest of my trip, days ran together and if not for date stamps on photos and notes on my phone, I’d have no idea where I was or what I did on any particular day.

Each day we ate breakfast (typically yogurt with fruit, almonds, and honey) and lunch (sandwiches) on board, and went ashore for dinner. (I can eat wheat in Greece without getting an upset stomach; avoiding nightshades is a challenge).

We typically stopped at two coves each day to swim and paddle board, then in a third to spend the night. I didn’t bring my waterproof camera, which is just as well since there were only a few small fish to be seen. The water was clear and the seafloor was mostly pebbles and seagrass, sadly more dead than alive.

We hired a captain, Andres, and had intended to help crew the boat, but the lines were too thick and the winches were too weak us to help with them. Instead, we took turns lowering and raising the anchor, and swimming ashore to tie and untie lines.

It was a very relaxing week spent in a swim suit and shorts.

Friday, 8 September – Back in Athens

My early flight from London was delayed (they had to swap planes due to a mechanical problem), but was otherwise uneventful. Unable to sleep with non-reclining Wizz Air seats, I finished listening to my audible book, Circe. We arrived about an hour behind schedule so I’m glad I didn’t have a connecting flight.

I took the train from the airport to central Athens. The 40-minute ride is supposed to run every 36 minutes; I stood and waited more than that. Flagging taxis was a challenge, and the first driver took a look at my destination and shook his head. I picked up the Airbnb key from a restaurant then wandered up and down the street several times, lugging my luggage, before I found the right door. By then it was 19:00. Lynn and Sue arrived later, having spent many hours waiting to get into the Acropolis. We figured out how to turn on the washing machine labeled in Greek, then met the others across the street for dinner – bread, olives, a yummy salad, house rose, and a large piece of tuna (which I finished eating for breakfast the next day).

Saturday, 9 September – Getting to Port

Our clothes dried overnight on the windy balcony. We had a few delays getting out of town; the driver initially went to the wrong destination and we got stuck in a bit of morning traffic. It’s about a four-hour drive to Preveza, the port town where we boarded our boat.

At our first rest stop, we walked across a bridge over the Corinth Canal. This narrow shipping channel, built about 80 years ago, connects the Aegean and Ionian Seas. At another stop, we picked up food for lunch and ate in the van (our driver was worried that he wouldn’t get back to Athens in time for his next ride).

We reached Preveza around 14:00, and hung out at café while waiting for the boat to be ready. Lynn dealt with the paperwork and we learned we needed to pay more than anticipated and it needed to be in cash. Andres, our captain, gave me a ride to an ATM on his scooter, and when we got back, he took Shashana there too. We unpacked our provisions and luggage, and walked to local restaurant for dinner; it was Lynn’s turn for a ride on Andrea’s scooter. I shared my overcooked chicken slovakia with a few cats. We took a different route back to the boat and discovered a lively street filled with shops and restaurants. The pharmacies were open and Lynn was able to get more medicine for the cough she’s been struggling with for weeks.

Sunday, 10 September – Sailing Day 1 – Preveza to Sivota Lefkada

The island of Lefkas is connected to the mainland by a floating bridge, which moves aside once an hour to allow boats to pass. We started motoring at 7:45 so we could get there in time for the 9:00 opening. (Most sailing trips through the northern Ionian Islands begin on Lefkas, but we started Preveza, a mainland port, since that’s where the boat Lynn selected is docked).

After motoring through the channel, we sailed a bit with Lynn at the helm. We stopped at two coves on Lefkas, somewhere near Lefkada and Poros, to swim. Thinking we were done swimming, I changed into dry clothes and later regretted now joining Lynn and Shashana for a swim into Papanikolis Cave, named after the submarine that hid there during WWII.

We docked in Sivota Lefkada for the night. Sue and I took a walk through the small town and picked up a few provisions, then met the others at a Stavros Taverna for dinner at the end of our dock. Since this town specializes in fish, three of us ordered sea bass.

Monday, 11 September – Sailing Day 2 – Lefkas to Ithac

I was up early and went to the bakery for bread and a pastry, took a free shower at the restaurant, and finished breakfast before the others were up. (The pastry was so good that I unsuccessfully tried to replicate it at other stops). Then, with time to sketch, I couldn’t find my sketching supplies. (I thought maybe I had left them back at port, but later learned they were gone for good, lost somewhere between London and Preveza).

Our first stop was a small cove east of Frikes on Ithaca (Ithaki to the Greeks), our second a small beach near Paralia Gidaki northeast of Vathi. There I tried paddle boarding; the boards were very tippy, I fell off multiple times and couldn’t say up. We docked in Vathi for the night. Lynn, Sue and I wandered through this cute port town. I bought a shirt and we enjoyed another yummy fish dinner.

Tuesday, 12 September – Sailing Day 3 – Ithaca (Vathi to Filiatro)

I went for a short walk before we left port, and picked up bread, pastries, and water. Our first stop was a rocky coastline near Vardiola Beach, close to Vathi. Lynn and I both successfully stood on the paddle boards; I stayed upright from the boat to shore and backsyno. I also painted a watercolor (borrowing paint from Sue and paper from Shoshana). At our next stop, Talaros on the southeast coast of Ithaca, I sat on the paddle boat and paddled like in a kayak so I could take me phone to the coastline and take pictures. We anchored near Parlia Filiatro and motored ashore for dinner, a small scenic spot with one restaurant. My meal was delayed so long that I canceled when the others finished eating, having nibbled enough from other’s plates to sustain me.

Wednesday, 13 September – Sailing Day 4 – Ithaca to Kefalonia

The sunrise was beautiful. After breakfast, we motored a short distance to a lovely small white sand beach. Taking a clue from another swimmer, I gave my skin a sand scrub, and the other women followed suit. It felt wonderful.

After lunch, we again used the paddleboards as kayaks, this time to explore a cave near Fiskardo on Kefalonia. The others walked through it. I paddled around to pick up Lynn and Sue on the other side. We docked in Fiskardo, a lovely port town where we took walks and enjoyed yet another yummy fish dinner.

Thursday, 14 September – Sailing Day 5 – Kefalonia to Kastos

Early in the morning, while the light was beautiful, Lynn and I walked up to the two lighthouses, a Venetian one built in the 16^th century, and a Victorian one build in 1892.

We sailed much of the way to our first stop, a small beach on the east side of Kastos, where I paddle boarded along the shore for quite a distance.

The mistral winds were favorable after lunch and we really sailed for the first time, Lynn at the helm most of the time, with Andres prepared to grab a line if need be. We opted to keep sailing and skipped our second swim spot.

Friday, 15 September – Sailing Day 6 – Kastos to Preveza

After another pretty sunrise, we began our journey back to port, stopping at Plagia Cantina on the way. Lynn, Sue and I took the dingy ashore and walked along the small beach. We were hoping to buy ice creams but their refrigeration was out of order. On the way back, a line got tangled in the rudder and before Lynn and I figured out why the engine stopped, a nearby sailor spotted us and towed our dingy back to our boat.

We motored back through the Lefkas channel, waited for the floating bridge to move aside, then sailed a bit on way back to Preveza. Once docked, we collected our luggage, toasted with champagne and a bit of cake to celebrate Lynn’s birthday. It was a special one, months ago, and the reason for this trip.

Saturday, 16 September – Flights Home

My flight left Preveza at 9:30, so I was the first one up. I walked to a bakery we found last night, but alas, it wasn’t open. A taxi picked me up at 7:45 for ten-minute ride to airport. I flew to Frankfort where I had a six-hour layover, almost enough time for a museum visit, but considering how long it took to get my luggage, and the complexity of the airport, I opted to stay nearby. (Why don’t airports provide seats in baggage claim areas)? I ventured across a sky bridge to a quiet restaurant for a sit-down lunch, then wandered in search of electrical outlets and sat on a cold tile floor while my devices charged.

Fortunately, I had a seat in Economy “Plus” so I wasn’t as uncomfortable as I otherwise would have been. I didn’t sleep much on the 11-hour flight, instead watched a movie and sorted photos. Customs didn’t take long at SFO and I didn’t have to wait long for the 20:30 Airporter. Linda picked me up an hour later and Sage was happy to see me when I got home, about 24 hours after I departed the boat.

Delphi

Tinos

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August 2023 – I spent a week with my painting workshop on Tinos, the windiest of the Cyclades Islands. While cooler than Athens, it was still hot by my standards and I spent most of the time in capris and flip flops. In addition to painting, we visited Pyrgus, a village on the opposite end of the island and I took daily walks along the shore.

Wednesday, 23 August – Ferry to Tinos

After a tasty fish lunch in Rafina, we boarded a large ferry for the two-hour ride to Tinos. I wish airline seats were as comfortable. I walked up to the deck a couple times, but it was way too windy to stay long. A bus was waiting at the Tinos port for our 15-minute drive to our lodging, Porto Raphael in Agios Ioannis.

Susan and are sharing a large room with a balcony overlooking the Aeronian sea. After getting settled, we joined the group for dinner at 7:30 (19:30). We have two large tables reserved for us in a shaded spot on the veranda. Here we ate all our meals. The breakfasts were at 8:00 buffet style; I had spanakopita and yogurt every day, and too many pastries. Lunches, at 1:30 (13:30), were light with bread, tziki, and delicious green salads, including one with shredded zucchini for which I now have the recipe. We had two entrée choices each evening, none very appealing, and all vegetables over cooked. It was a challenge to avoid nightshades. The sunsets were lovely.

Thursday, 24 August – Painting

A handful of us started sneaking out food with every meal for a mama kitty and her five kittens. They were ravenous. Some of the many cats on the island have clipped ears, indicating they have been neutered, but not many. When we left, we donated money for them.

Our routine most days was to work on one painting in the morning, another in the afternoon. I decided to start with a painting of the chapel. There was a shaded nook near it and this is where Doug and I set up, after collecting rocks to hold down our drop clothes and palette paper. I also hung a bag from my easel to keep it stable. While we were mostly protected from the wind, gusts were frequent. A few people painted on the veranda, while others painting outside their rooms.

In the afternoon, Susan and I painted on our balcony, also using rocks to keep things in place.

Friday, 25 August – Painting

I took a morning walk with Meghana, Jeanette, and Susan. We saw goats.

My painting suffered overnight. Apparently one of the workers, thrilled to see a painting of the chapel, picked it up and hugged it, getting paint on his shirt. It was then left on the ground and the wind brought in dirt. Fortunately, it was only the first layer, so I wiped off the dirt and continued. It was a bit cooler and windier than yesterday.

I took a short refreshing swim in the pool before lunch and a nap after. I painted later than yesterday, and had just enough time for a shower and cocktail before dinner. There I saw Shahrazad with her leg propped up on a chair. While walking down to the beach with Meghana, she slipped and twisted her ankle. She took a taxi to the emergency room and confirmed that it was broken. An appointment with the next day confirmed two breaks, and she was told that if she keeps all weight off it, she probably won’t need surgery.

Saturday, 26 August 26 – Pyrgos

I took a walk with Jeanette and Susan to the two beaches near us before breakfast. There are several restaurants and places to rent chairs and umbrellas, quiet in the morning, busy in the afternoons and evenings.

We took a field trip to Pyrgos, where we visited the Museum of Marble Crafts. There are many quarries in Greece, most of the marble is white or grey, but it is also found in a great variety of colors. We learned many techniques for splitting and transporting heavy blocks. While we were inside, it started to rain and the goats began to run down the mountain. They must have known a thunderstorm was coming. It was very loud and one lightning bolt hit the large crane outside the building. I’m glad we were indoors and not driving on a narrow, windy road when it hit.

The storm ended as we left the museum and we wandered around this cute town with narrow, twisting streets. We ate lunch at Dough and Shakers, specializing in pizza and cocktails. I opted for ravioli and a fancy drink, Chalepas (The Greatest Tinian Sculptor). I bought a metal fish to add to my growing collection of backyard art pieces. On the way back, I continued listening to an audible book, Circe, on the hour bus ride, hearing stories about the gods

I painted from 4:00-7:00 pm.

Sunday, 27 August – Painting

I was awakened early by flashes of lightening, and got up to watch the storm from our balcony. Susan and I met our walking buddies by the pool. The four of us wandered around by the rocks, then Meghana and I headed up the mountain. We took a higher road than last time and were able to see a bit more to the east.

I worked on my chapel painting in the morning. The mineral spirits we are using are not odorless and the fumes were bad in alcove. I stopped an hour before lunch so I had time for a very refreshing swim in the sea. It’s cooler today and still very windy (according to the weather app the wind is 15-25 mph with 35 mph gusts)

I spent a pleasant afternoon painting on our balcony until 7:00 pm, listening to Greek music drifting up from the beach bar.

Monday, 28 August – Final Painting Day

Meghana and I took our longest morning walk, going up and around the bend to the east where we could see another peninsula jutting into the sea. The light is beautiful at this time of day. There was almost no wind.

I painted in the morning, almost finishing my chapel painting and making good progress on the other. Lunch included fish for the first time, anchovies and sardines. Susan and Jenny skipped the group lunch and went to one of the restaurants near the beach for sea bream, our new favorite.

I took the afternoon off from painting and went for a wonderful swim in the sea and took a nap before joining the others for our critique. It was great to see such a diverse set of paintings, some finished, some in progress. While most used oil or acrylic, a couple painters chose watercolor. Several also had sketchbooks; I’m impressed by what some people can draw while standing up. (I was too busy painting to sketch this week).

There was a melancholy feel to dinner as we knew we would all be heading in different directions in the morning. I hope to see many in a future workshop.

Tuesday, 29 August – Farewell Tinos

I packed up my paintings, fortunately fairly dry thanks to the use of mineral spirts instead of linseed oil, plus the sun and wind. I wrapped them in wax paper and put them in a box I constructed in advance. Hopefully that will protect them as I continue with my trip.

Meghana and I took our morning walk up and around the little hill between beaches. After breakfast, Shahrazad was carried to an ambulance, and the rest of us boarded the bus back to port. (She was later taken on and off the ferry in a wheelchair; I admire her good spirts). A handful of us took a short walk through the town before boarding. Larry and Anastasia took a different ferry, heading for another island and a chance to relax without the need to keep track of 15 painters. A dozen of us ate lunch at the same restaurant as on our way out. They were out of the local fish I wanted to try so I had seabass and perfectly cooked vegetables. The proprietor called four cabs for us and we headed off in different directions.

Susan, Jenny and I shared one to our hotel, in a busier location than before. After a short break we walked briefly in the botanical garden, then caught a cab to the funicular which took us up to the top of Hill of Lycabettus, where we had a drink and watched the sunset. They both ordered food, but barely ate any, we were all still full from lunch.