Category Archives: United States

Florida

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I’m in Florida for the first time since visiting my grandmother in 1988. She retired to West Palm Beach and when I visited her that summer, I vowed never to return. The humidity isn’t as oppressive this time, “only” 75%. Perhaps the unusually high humidity we experienced in San Francisco this year helped prepare me for it. This is my first venture into the southern part of this lush green state. I’ve enjoyed living in shorts and flip-flops.

 11/9/15 – Getting to Florida

 The shuttle picked me up at 4:00 a.m., expediting my adjustment to the East Coast time zone. Our take off was delayed a bit, due to a mechanical problem with a cargo door, so I entered commute traffic when I left Miami in a rented Hyundai. It was dark by the time I got out of town, so I saw nothing but taillights as I drove the Tamiami Highway to Everglades City, near the northwest section of the national park. The animal crossing signs were flashing, but no one slowed down for the wildlife. Fortunately I saw no dead panthers or alligators, though cars kill many of them.

11/10/15 – Boating in the Everglades

Considering the time change, it was mighty early when I got up to go on a four-hour guided canoe trip into the swamp. The mosquitoes were swarming when we got to the launch site, but they didn’t bother me on the water. The trip was great fun, in spite of a couple chatty couples sometimes spoiling the quiet; the little alligators quickly sunk beneath the surface as we approached. It was almost as magical as the Amazon jungle and not nearly as toxic. My favorite part was going through mangrove tunnels, especially when I was the lead canoe and had smooth reflective water in front of me. If I return, I’d consider doing the ten-mile trip from the launch site back to Everglades City, provided someone had recently gone through the tunnels and cleared the spider webs.

After lunch at Camilla Street Grill, a pleasant spot on the water right in back of the Ivey House where I’m staying, I headed south to the Gulf Coast Visitor Center and took another boat ride (the best way to see this place is definitely on the water). I saw a few of the Ten Thousand Islands. We spotted several dolphins. Afterwards, I toured the Smallwood Store in Chokoloskee, now a “museum” containing an eclectic collection of old stuff, ranging from Indian tools and giant snakeskins to old jars and equipment. I enjoyed chatting with the proprietor. By then it was almost time for sunset, so I watched the clouds turn yellow, a very pleasant end to a great day.

11/11/15 – Big Cypress National Preserve

I considered canceling my pole boat tour, because I would be returning to the Turner River, but I’m glad I didn’t. This ride was more peaceful and better for photography than canoeing, especially since I was the only passenger. We were the first on the water and were able to see more wildlife. After the two-hour tour, I returned to the Skunk Ape Research Center, worth a stop, and got a personal tour of Rick’s collection of critters.

I then spent a couple hours driving around Big Cypress and stopping numerous times to photography birds and trees in the swamp.

11/12/15 – Ding Darling

I drove west to Cape Coral hoping to see lots of birds at the Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge on Sanibel Island. I did see quite a few, but most of them were too far away to photograph, and I’m not sure it was worth the detour.

11/13/15 – Miami Beach

On my way to Miami, I stopped for a stroll in a sauna. At least that’s what my 3-mile walk in Shark Valley felt like. My shirt was soaked by the time I got back to the car. For my efforts, I was rewarded with several birds, a couple alligators in the water, a variety of flowers, and beautiful clouds. My favorite sighting was an Anhinga swimming underwater.

It was too early to check into our Airbnb when I got to Miami Beach, so I sauntered along the boardwalk, admiring the turquoise water and colorful umbrellas. That didn’t last long; soon I retired into an air conditioned restaurant for lunch. I take back everything I said about the weather not being oppressive. It got up to 90o F (that’s 32 o for you Celsius-minded folks) down here in the land of endless summer – too warm for me, especially when it’s humid.

Anne arrived early in the evening and we walked next door for a mediocre dinner – lousy wine and salty food.

11/14/15 – A Wet Day in Miami

We almost got back from a morning walk along the beach before the rain started. Since the sky was grey, we changed into dry clothes and braved the Aventura Mall, shopping for shirts and ponchos. The rain long stopped enough for us to take a short walk in the Wynwood area, filled with murals, galleries, and cafes. It started pouring just as we finished lunch at Coyo Taco, so we ordered hot beverages from Panther Coffee and waited for it to slow down. We headed out during a lull, but it started again and we were soaked again by the time we reached the car.

Southern California

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I just completed a short road trip to Southern California with Carmen, a friend of Sibylle’s, now a friend of mine, visiting from Switzerland.

9/30/15 – The Broad

We left early to avoid the morning commute in the Bay Area, zipped down I-5 and reached Los Angeles around noon. We’d heard that The Broad, a new contemporary art museum, was sold out, but we went directly there just to see the building and were pleasantly surprised to find a line for people without reservations. Our wait was short (thankfully, since it was hot outside, in the 90’s) and the entry free, which reduced the sting of the $20 parking fee. We downloaded The Broad app, bought a pair of headphones (we have many, but none with us), and headed up a long portal (escalator) to the top floor of the museum, which contains most of the exhibits. I popped back and forth between a couple of the self-guided tours listening to lots of interesting commentary as we strolled about the spacious, brightly lit galleries. It was a pleasant afternoon.

Afterwards, we walked across the street and I took a few pictures of the Disney Concert Hall, a fascinating building designed by Frank Gehry. It opened in 2003, which shows you how longs it’s been since I’ve been to L.A.. No performances fit our schedule, so I won’t be seeing the inside.

10/1/15 – Disneyland

What fun! We got in at opening and left just as the fireworks were starting. I hadn’t been in at least 15 years, but overall little has changed, including the lines. The addition of FastPass allowed us to pre-schedule the most popular rides, e.g. Splash Mountain in the middle of a hot afternoon. Taking advice from friends who visited the park recently, we grabbed a ticket for Star Tours then headed directly to Space Mountain, starting off with two of our favorites, which we repeated later in the day (discovering that there is more than one star tour). According to the Health app on my phone, we walked about 28,000 steps. My feet were definitely ready for a break when we finally sat down on the curb to wait for the night parade. Gratefully Carmen drove us back up to LA in the dark. (Ideally, I would stay in Anaheim the night before and after Disneyland, but that didn’t fit well with our other plans).

10/2/15 – The Getty and Santa Monica

After two early mornings, it felt good to sleep in at our Airbnb in Hollywood. With the AC on and shades drawn, I slept for a rare ten hours and woke feeling totally refreshed. We walked up to a café for breakfast and then took a Lyft ride to the Getty Center, letting someone else deal with the crazy traffic the L.A. is rightfully known for. Another free museum with expensive parking, a great way to encourage carpooling. This amazing white complex up on a hill is worth visiting for the architecture alone, especially as the haze cleared and we were able to glimpse the city and the ocean in the distance. Here they provide iPods and headphones and we could enter the number of selected pieces to hear about them. One of the most fascinating was Christ’s Entry into Brussels in 1889 by James Ensor.

Afterwards, we took a taxi to Santa Monica. The weather was perfect as we explored the pier and strolled barefoot along the beach. It was late afternoon by the time we made it to the other side of town for an early dinner at Marix, a Mexican restaurant that served yummy mojitos. The Lyft ride back, now in the middle of the evening commute, took so long that I had the driver stop at a fast food joint so I could use the restroom on our way.

10/2/15 – LA County Museum

 I puttered on my laptop while Carmen slept in, then we packed the car and headed to brunch on nearby Sunset Blvd. It was close to noon by the time we got to the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. We say only a fraction of the exhibits spread across several buildings. I particularly liked Breathing Light by Ganzfeld. This light-filled room with slowly changing colors felt infinite.

It was mid-afternoon when we departed and it took 3.5 hours to get to La Jolla, a distance that would take about half that if it weren’t for the incessant traffic. The tasty veggie chili I ate earlier wrecked havoc on my digestive system, so after a couple urgent bathroom stops I purchased medicine to put a stop to that. When we got to our destination, Carmen and I walked down to an Italian restaurant where I watched her eat dinner.

 10/3-10/5 – La Jolla

Carmen and I spend a leisurely three days staying with my friend Dede, whom I met almost a quarter century ago at a parent gathering when her son and my youngest were in preschool. We bonded over monthly hikes. When she first moved to back to La Jolla, where she was raised, I visited annually. Back then, I’d arrive at the airport 15 minutes before my $49 round-trip flight with skewers of chicken in my carry-on luggage ready for a barbeque at the beach. That all changed with the shoe bomber. Between our travel schedules, it’s been a half dozen years or so since my last visit. Hopefully the next one will be much sooner.

We got some much-needed rain on our first two days, but there were breaks so I was able to stroll barefoot along the breach every morning, camera in hand, my favorite La Jolla activity. We also did a bit of shopping, treated ourselves to a massage and pedicure, and hung out at the house. In other words, we did very little and it felt wonderful. Dede and a friend joined us for dinner on the terrace one day, where we watched a nice sunset. On our last night we drive into San Diego and saw In Your Arms, a very enjoyable theatrical dance performance.

To avoid traffic, we left after the theater and drove to Santa Clarita, north of Los Angeles, reaching our hotel around midnight.

10/6/15 – Home Again

The five and a half hour drive home was uneventful: cruise control on I-5, shifting lanes to past trucks, and smooth flowing traffic on the Bay Bridge. It’s good to be back and out of the car.

Michigan

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Aug 3-10 – MichFest

I attended my first, and the last, Michigan Women’s Music Festival. I travelled with another “virgin”, Erin. We camped with her friend Sharon who has been attending for decades. After 40 years, this event in the fern-filled woods of western Michigan is ending. For long-time attendees, the week was bittersweet, with many sad farewells. I’m glad I had the opportunity to experience this magical week of camping with more than 6000 women. The temperature was perfect, the mosquitoes were few, and it didn’t rain nearly as much as I’d been warned.

It’s hard to concisely describe this festival, something in between small, nurturing Elderfower and wild, crazy Burning Man. My fondest memories: singing in the choir, open air showers, outdoor movies with popcorn, entertaining comedians and musicians, walks though the woods, parades, random conversations with women of all ages, and a moving closing ceremony. Less favorite moments: sleeping in the car Monday night when the gate closed on our way in, long food lines, and the cold I caught (which didn’t fully manifest until I got home, but did contribute to the delay in this posting).

Aug 10-11 – Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

We left MichFest early Monday, before the first shuttle back to the parking lot, and drove north for about six hours, to the Upper Peninsula (a.k.a. U.P.). Having been in Michigan only briefly once before (to visit Kalamazoo when Alex was looking at colleges), I didn’t realize that it touches four of the five great lakes. We set up camp near the shore of Lake Superior in a town called Christmas, then drove out in search of waterfalls; there are more than a dozen in the area. We saw the coast just as the fog was clearing and enjoyed a stroll along the beach. The lake is so big that it felt like the ocean with waves lapping along the shore. The next day, Erin stayed at camp while I explored the park, hiking to waterfalls and climbing sand dunes. It was quite beautiful.

Aug 12-13 – Sleeping Bear Dunes

 We drove back to the lower peninsula and set up camp at Turtle Lake, about 45 minutes southeast of Empire, which is close to the midpoint of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, a long narrow wilderness area along the shore of Lake Michigan. (If I came again, I’d stay further north, somewhere near Glen Arbor.) We did my favorite hike on the first day, a loop near Sleeping Bear Point. It provided great views of the dunes and coastline, plus a walk through a forest.

Aug 14 – Botanical Garden

Our flight wasn’t until late afternoon, so we stopped at the Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park in Grand Rapids before returning our rental car. It was hot and more humid than on any other day since we arrived, so I lasted only an hour outdoors. Overall we put 1250 miles on the car, too much for my taste, especially since I was the only driver.

Visit to Colorado

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I just returned from another trip to Colorado, perhaps my second favorite state. I spent half the time with hiking buddies in the Rocky Mountains and half with a friend in Fort Collins.

7/23/15 – Into the Rockies

Robin and I got a ride to the airport (thanks Erin). We flew to Denver where we met Anne arriving on a different airline. We rented a car and drove to Fraser, arriving at Lynne’s family condo five hours after we landed. In addition to a quick lunch, we were delayed by a slow car rental line, commute traffic, rubber necking, and road construction. Note for next time: take an earlier flight and/or arrive on a weekend.

We dropped our bags and took a two-mile walk to The Library, a restaurant in Winter Park (decent food, lousy beer, and a raising noise level). It felt good to stretch our legs and begin adjusting to the altitude (about 8500’).

7/24 – Hike on Vasquez Ridge

We took two cars, left one at Winter Park, and then drove up to the Berthoud Pass trailhead, at 11,300’. From there it was a steady climb with many switchbacks up to the Continental Divide Trail. We spent most of the day above the tree line traversing through the Vasquez Peak Wilderness and Arapaho National Forest. The views were spectacular, though as the day progressed it became more difficult for me to enjoy them, as I became nervous of the darkening sky. We felt a few raindrops, but, fortunately, thunderstorms did not materialize.

After overshooting Mary Jane peak, we backtracked, and then bushwhacked down into the Winter Park ski area, making our way down to Sunspot where we caught the Zephyr Express Chairlift down to our first car. The hike was longer than expected, 10-12 miles; it took six hours, including only a few short breaks. We felt pretty proud of ourselves covering that distance after coming from sea level. Too tired to cook, we picked up pizza on our way back to the condo. Lynne and I enjoyed a soak in the jacuzzi afterwards.

7/25/15 – Hike to Columbine Lake

After a ten-mile drive on a fairly well maintained dirt road, we reached Junco trailhead in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. The weather was perfect. On our way up to Columbine Lake we passed beautiful meadows strewn with wildflowers and a lovely stream with a few cascades. We had lunch at gorgeous Columbine Lake, staring up at the cliff from where Lynne and a friend were rescued a few years ago. Still not back in shape after recent injuries, Anne and I took a break while Lynne and Robin hiked around the lake. Officially, today’s hike was only six miles, but it felt more like eight and our iPhones claimed it was even longer.

We had planned to drive into Rocky Mountain National Park, but the altitude was bothering Robin so instead we drove to Grandby and snacked on guacamole at a Mexican restaurant. My lime margaritas were the perfect complement to the chips and dip.

After a shower and short break, we had dinner at Crooked Creek Saloon in Fraser, then returned to the condo to watch The Heat, a movie that had all of us laughing out loud.

7/26 – On to Fort Collins

 After a bit of commotion due to a water leak, we three guests headed back to Denver in our now filthy rented Kia. This time, the drive took only an hour and a half, half as long as on the way up. After returning the car, Robin and Anne took a shuttle to the airport. Nancy, my best friend from high school, picked me up shortly afterwards.

We chatted during the hour drive north to Fort Collins, catching up on the year since my last visit. Nancy’s arm is in a sling due to recent shoulder surgery and she’s recovering a whole lot faster than I did after mine. We stopped to say hi to her husband, Steve and younger son, Zack, then went to one of my favorite outdoor stores, Jax, where I found what I hope is the perfect backpack for day hikes.

Later, Steve, Nancy, and I took a bus up into the mountains to Mishawaka, an outdoor concert venue along a running river, where we saw Asleep at the Wheel, a Texas swing band whose music I last listened to in college. It was a fun evening.

7/27 – Nancy’s 60th Birthday

To celebrate her birthday, Nancy and I had a deluxe moisturizing pedicure. It felt great, especially given how dry it is here compared to the Bay Area. We also did a bit of shopping, at another great outdoor store, Sierra Trading Post, and Nuance, a local chocolate company. I spent the rest of the afternoon catching up on my blog and reviewing Photoshop with Zack. For dinner, the four of us went out to a seafood restaurant, also named Jax. The calamari appetizer was particularly yummy. Afterwards we enjoyed watching The Hundred Foot Journey, a pleasant movie with great cinematography about an Indian family that relocates to France and opens a restaurant.

7/28 – Rocky Mountain National Park

 Though we entered the park before 9:00, the parking lot at the Bear Lake trailhead was already full and there was a long line waiting for shuttle buses. Instead Nancy and I took a drive through the park, up one-way Old Fall River Road (open only in the summer) and down Trail Ridge Road. On the east side, we took a short stroll around Lily Lake with lovely wildflowers. Spotting a moose and her youngster made our day.

 Nancy’s older son, Alex, and his girlfriend, Rachel, joined us for dinner at Rodizzo, a Brazilian restaurant that specializes in meat, meat, meat. (Fortunately they also have a hearty salad bar). It was a double celebration as Rachel’s birthday is only a couple days before Nancy’s. We were all too stuffed to eat much of the ice cream cake that Zack picked up earlier in the day.

7/29 – Home Again

I took a short walk with Nancy, Zack, and one of their dogs, Bella, before giving Nancy a farewell hug. Zack drove me to the airport while Nancy headed up to Cheyenne for an afternoon of work. I arrived home in the late afternoon to uncommonly beautiful weather.

 

 

California Camping

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I recently went on two camping trips in Northern California, where we are blessed with much natural beauty. 
 
Trinity Alps (July 2-5)
 
Traffic light on the long drive north
(except for construction before Weaverville)
Outside temp over 100
 
Great conversations,
in the car, along the trail, and at the waterholes
Familiar faces and friendly new ones
 
Tents scattered through spacious campground
Dried leaves and pine needles
Slivers of water visible through the trees
 
Scramble down to Trinity Lake, one third full due to drought
A flotilla of houseboats in the distance, water warm,
aroma of motor oil and the sound of jet skies
 
Full moon at sunset, reflected on the water
From my topless tent, trees silhouetted
and a few stars in the dimly lit sky
 
Long drives to trailheads at cooler altitudes
A doe and fawn cross the bumpy dirt road
Glimpses of Shasta through the haze
 
Refreshing swims in bowls of granite
Some wildflowers in bloom
Distant thunder, a few sprinkles
  
Cicadas turning on and off
The chirps and twill of birds
Beautiful silence
  
First Saturday in Weaverville
Food, music, and art at Our Space Gallery
What more do I need?
 
No fireworks and follies light
Enjoy the night
Heat Heat Heat
 
Loon Lake (July 16-19)
  
I had a wonderful long weekend kayaking, hiking and swimming in the Sierras with Blue Water Ventures. We loaded up our kayaks at Loon Lake, just west of Desolation Wilderness, and paddled to a boat-in campsite at the north end, called Pleasant Lake. Fortunately there was a slab of granite near the launch site so we could get our gear down to the water, about 30’ below it’s pre-drought level. I paddled to camp with Anne, learning to steer without a rudder.
 
Our group of 13 women, four of whom I knew in advance, was catered to by a half dozen staff and volunteers. We received kayaking instruction (I learned how to rescue and be rescued from a flipped boat) and were served delicious meals. It was a very relaxing and enjoyable trip with great company and perfect weather.

Goodbye Virginia

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October 27 – Rest Day

We fed chickens, walked dogs in Fighting Creek Park, shopped for groceries, did laundry, and puttered on our computers. As I write, it sounds more like running errands than resting, but it was a relaxing day.

October 28-29 – Shenandoah National Park

I borrowed Jennifer’s car and enjoyed a leisurely tour of this park; her sporty Volvo was perfect for the road. I started at the southern end. Skyline Drive connects to the northern end of the Blue Ridge Parkway; together these two roads provide almost 600 miles of scenic driving, though at 35 mph, plus stops, that would take a long time. I spent almost a full day traversing the lower two-thirds of Shenandoah. Needless to say, I made numerous stops for photos. As was the case down near Ashville, the viewpoints on the east side were a bit better than the west, so making a south to north drive perfect for me. I also took two hikes, one on a bit of the Appalachian Trail where a sign warned of copperheads, the other to Dark Hollow Falls where a sign warned of nuisance bears. I saw neither. My favorite was the popular hike to the falls, though on parts of this trail the sound of the stream was overpowered by the sound of rangers with leaf blowers. Nature is not what it used to be.

Late in the afternoon, I exited the park and drove a short distance to Luray where I stayed in the very cute Mayneview B&B. I was pleasantly surprised to find live jazz at the restaurant recommended by the owner. After dinner, another guest, a former San Franciscan, and I watched the beginning of game six in the World Series; we both gave up after a few innings. The resident tabby cat, Molly, followed me up to my room and spent the night curled up at the foot of the bed. I look forward to being reunited with Timbre and my other critters soon.

I had planned to do another hike in the morning, but it started to drizzle at about the same time I reached the parkway. Instead I drove through the upper third of the park, stopping for a few photos in the increasing rain, then headed back to Powhatan where I enjoyed a delicious dinner, Mediterranean tacos, prepared by Jennifer’s partner, Michael. Afterwards we all watched the Giants win the World Series. Though I rarely watch games, it was fun surrounded by avid sports fans.

October 30 – Charlottesville

Jennifer and I spent much of the day in Charlottesville, about an hour away. We took a four-mile walk on the Saunders-Monticello Trail. This accessible trail, on crushed rock and boardwalks, goes though a beautiful forest. We didn’t visit Monticello, as we’ve both toured there before (I was here with Joe and the boys in the late ‘90s). Instead we headed over to the mall in the historic downtown. A lone street musician braved the chilly breeze and played a piano. The outdoor tables were deserted, but I can imagine this as a lively scene at another time of year. We ate lunch and browsed in several cute stores.

October 31 – Powhatan

I spent a leisurely last day with Jennifer. We walked around Powhatan and watched the Giants victory parade on television. I sorted photos while she took care of chores. In the evening we drove into Richmond, where she treated Michael and me to dinner to celebrate the sale of her condo in San Francisco; it looks like she’s here to stay.

November 1 – Home

I fixed fresh eggs for breakfast and then Michael gave me a ride to the airport. The temperature was dropping with overnight frost predicted, so I left at just the right time. It took about twelve hours door-to-door to get home. After my laptop died, I entertained myself taking pictures out the window. I look forward to the time when electrical outlets are standard on planes. I don’t have any trips planned for the next few months, so I probably won’t post again until early next year. I hope you all enjoy the upcoming holidays.

North Carolina

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October 24 – Slow Drive to Ashville

 We broke up our drive to North Carolina with a couple stops. In Farmville, Jennifer took me to a store with gorgeous Amish furniture; I’m temped to order a chest I saw there. We walked through the historic section of Winston-Salem and drove through the Wake Forest campus where one of my niece’s attended college. By the time we got to Ashville, it was dinnertime. We managed to get one of the last tables available at Blackbird, where we had the best meal I’ve eaten on this trip, a vegetarian farm dish with mashed sweat potatoes, grilled Brussels sprouts, mushrooms, and asparagus, with each item deliciously prepared. Our airbnb, the basement of someone’s home, was cute and comfy, but we both felt that one of the closets was haunted.

 October 25 – Train Ride through Nanthala Gorge

In the morning, we returned to Biltmore Avenue and got in line at the Green Sage Café so Jennifer could get coffee. We then visited the Folk Art Store on the Blue Ridge Parkway, which had a great variety of beautifully crafted items by local artists. Afterwards we drove to Bryson, where we had pre-purchased tickets for ride with the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad through Nanthala Gorge.

Our slow half-day train ride wasn’t as scenic as either of us anticipated. There were nice views of the river and some colorful foliage, but nothing that wowed us. (The views were a bit better on the left side of the train). However, it’s a pleasant ride for train buffs. The weather was perfect and we kept the windows open; the same type as the yellow school buses from my high school days. When we took an hour break at the Nanthala Outdoor Center, I went for a short walk on a segment of the Appalachian trail; I’d like to hike more of it some day. A guitarist played blue grass music on the train and at our rest stop.

Back in Bryson, the restaurant was crowded so we shared a table with a young couple from Tennessee. Our lively conversation covered many subjects, from atheism to politics, child rearing, and the benefits of travel. 

October 26 – Blue Ridge Parkway

The morning started our cool and foggy, but soon cleared and warmed up to t-shirt weather. After another stop in Ashville for coffee, we spent much of the day driving a 100-mile segment of the parkway, something best done with someone more patient than my sister. It’s a beautiful drive, especially at this time of year. At the beginning, it felt like we were driving through a colorful tunnel with an amber glow. The trees were a mix of yellow, ochre, and orange with a splash of red now and then. As we climbed in elevation, there were more brown leaves and at the highest point, near Mount Mitchell State Park, the trees were barren. At one stop, overlooking a multi-colored hillside, a local told me that this is not a good year, with much less color than usual.

We took a break for a two-mile round-trip hike to see Linville Falls. It felt good to stretch my legs, but the trail was quite crowded with people and dogs (that’s what we get for selecting one of the shorter hikes and going on a Sunday). Our last stop before departing the parkway was the crafts center at Moses Cone Memorial Park. It was a smaller, less impressive one than the Folk Art Store, though I bought a handmade wooden spoon.

We had planned to stop in Roanoke or someplace else along the way, but instead decided to drive all the way back to Powhatan, covering almost 1000 miles in three days. We stopped for dinner along the way and listened to the fifth game in the World Series on the static-filled radio. Go Giants!

Hello Virginia

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October 21-22 – Powhatan and Richmond

 I relaxed at my sister’s place in Powhatan, a rural county in central Virginia to which she recently moved. She and her partner live in a spacious house surrounded by acres of deciduous trees; theirs are just beginning to turn color. Her younger daughter is living with them, along with three dogs and five chickens, young hens just beginning to lay eggs. Jennifer has a part-time job at the YMCA teaching swimming and lifeguarding. I met her one day after her shift and we swam laps in the pool now covered in a bubble for winter.

On Wednesday, Jennifer’s birthday, we drove into Richmond, about a hour away, and visited Carytown, a hip street lined with restaurants and shops. We had a delicious Thai lunch at Mama’s Siam, bought sweets at I Love Chocolate, a giant candy store, and pet a small pig at The Stolen Pig, a shop with an eclectic mix of stuff. We also stopped at the Tredegar Iron Works where canons and other munitions were manufactured during the civil war. Richmond was the capital of the Confederate States of America and it’s capture lead to the end of the war.

 October 23 – Crabtree Falls

We drove a couple hours to the George Washington National Forest, southwest of Shenandoah, and took a four-mile round-trip hike along Crabtree Creek. The trail, covered with fall leaves, led though a beautiful yellow-leafed forest. Along the way we saw many cascades and waterfalls, cumulatively forming the highest vertical-drop cascading waterfall east of the Mississippi.

Apparently I damaged more than the lens when I dropped my camera in Pisa. The automatic functions have been failing one at a time and I’ve now resorted to using it in full manual mode. Fortunately the light meter is still working; I hope it lasts until I return home and can send it in for repairs.

New York City

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October 17-20

I took Amtrak from Boston and met my sister, Jennifer, at Penn Station in NYC. The Airbnb apartment we had reserved in Hells Kitchen was so bad we left immediately and have submitted an appeal for reimbursement. Jennifer got online and quickly found us a nice room at the Manhattan at Times Square for less money. We stayed on the 22nd floor and were thrilled to discover a deck outside our room. Nice.

Surprise, while in Time Square we ran into a couple I know from San Francisco, Dan and Marie, who I haven’t seen in several years. We had them over for drinks on our deck; they brought Lebanese leftovers including very delicious Brussels sprouts. I enjoyed our visit and look forward to getting together back home.

According to Jennifer’s fitbit, we walked about 26 miles during our three-day visit. I had wanted to walk across the Brooklyn Bridge, but it’s closed due to construction. Instead we took a ferry to Brooklyn and walked back across the Manhattan Bridge. I loved the views and took photos in between rumbling trains. The Freedom Tower makes a beautiful addition to the skyline; I like how it reflects the sky and clouds.

The next day we walked the High Line, an elevated railroad track that has been converted to a park: a delightful variety of gardens, art, benches, and views. That was also the day the temperature dropped and an icy wind blew, so we walked briskly.

After dinner, a variety of food from mediocre Cuban to yummy Italian, we saw a show each night. Partway into the musical Once I started to feel déjà vu and by the end I realized I had seen it in it’s original movie form. Overall pleasant; I loved the voice of the lead woman singer, Jessie Fisher. Cinderella was our favorite: great cast, great sets, great music, and a few small twists on this familiar story. We left This is Our Youth after intermission; maybe it redeems itself in the second half, but we were both falling asleep.

We also got to MOMA, where I saw Henri Matisse: The Cut-Outs. It was interesting to read about how he transitioned to this art form and to see the 3D originals rather than reproductions. On our final morning, I went to the 9/11 Memorial, while Jennifer went shopping at nearby Century 21. The museum, built around remnants of one of the twin towers, tells the history of the World Trade Center and has lots of displays about the event and aftermath. I viewed a short time lapse video of the ongoing reconstruction. Overall it was sad and I didn’t stay long.

After shopping, we headed back uptown to collect our luggage, stopping at a deli to pick up food on our way, and took a cab back to Penn Station for a train to Richmond.

Tip: If you’re near there, get your discount tickets at the Seaport TKTS booth; it opens earlier and the lines are shorter than at Times Square. If I weren’t going to the theatre, I wouldn’t stay near Times Square; it’s literally wall-to-wall people. Next time I’ll avoid the weekend.

A Bit of Boston

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I spent a rainy day in Boston, transitioning from the wilds of the coast to bustle of the city, heading next to NYC. I stayed at an airbnb in Roslindale where I was able to leave my car, and took the Orange Line downtown. I walked across a bridge to the Institute of Contemporary Arts museum where I saw a beautiful fiber sculpture show and enjoyed watching the end of The Visitors, a music video installation. After lunch at Durgin Park, adjacent to touristy Quincy Market, I took the train a couple stops back so I could walk through the Boston Commons. It was quite pleasant, until the drizzle turned to downpour. I returned to my room to dry off and finally uploaded my first post for this trip (leaf peeping in Vermont).