Reykjavik

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I flew to Iceland three days ahead of my friends so I could explore the area in and around Reykjavik before we embark on the Ring Road.

8/20/16 – Getting Here

I managed to take a couple short naps during my eight-hour direct flight, though my rear and arms went a bit numb thanks to the lack of padding on discount Wow Airlines. Though bare bones (they even charged for water – what’s next, a fee to use the bathroom?!), the plane was clean and got me here safely.

8/21/16 – Walking Reykjavik

The FlyBus dropped me off at 6:30 a.m. I was able to leave my bags, but couldn’t check into my Airbnb until noon, so I went walking, and pretty much continued walking all day long under overcast, drizzly skies. According to my phone, I covered more than a dozen miles, though it didn’t feel that far since I did it in pieces and Reykjavik is relatively flat (by SF standards at least). I walked up to the famous church that looks like basalt columns, down along the waterfront, and through old town. Along the way, I visited all three branches of the Reykjavik Art Museum and sampled my first Icelandic hot dog, a popular fast food here. There is construction everywhere, a mall and hotel near the harbor, and plenty of generic mid-rise apartment buildings. Some are colorful, but many seem quite dull for a town which frequently has grey skies. I ended my day, after getting settled into my tiny room and showering in geothermally heated sulfur-smelling water, with a yummy fish dinner.

8/22/16 – Golden Circle

I rented a car with GPS and drove to see Iceland’s most famous tourist attractions, collectively known as the Golden Circle. The weather was perfect for photography, a beautiful, changing mixture of sun and clouds. I walked several kilometers at Þingvellir National Park where the European and North American tectonic plates meet, got splashed with warm water at Geysir, was awestruck by the volume of water in Gullfoss (“foss” meaning waterfall in Icelandic), and took a stroll around the Kerid crater shortly before sunset on my way back to town.

8/23/16 – Horseback Riding

After breakfast and a leisurely morning stroll, I was picked up in a van and transported to the Íshestar Stables where I went on my best horseback ride ever. The small, hardy Icelandic horses have a couple gaits not commonly found in horses: tölt (same footfall pattern as walk but faster) and skeið (a.k.a. “flying pace”, close to a gallop). Both paces are smoother and more comfortable than any I’ve experienced. Great horses, combined with fun guides and beautiful volcanic scenery made for a wonderful time. In what seems to be typical weather for Iceland, we had a mixture of sun and rain, so the provided raincoats came in handy.

Art and Hiking in the Rockies

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I’m home from Colorado after attending an art class near Aspen and visiting a friend, Lynne, for a bit of hiking in one of my favorite mountain ranges.

Aug 1-5 – Art Class

 I attended a five-day Photo Encaustic class at Anderson Ranch Art Center in Snowmass. This is an amazing place with a dozen or so classes offered at the same time. I stayed in a dorm and ate delicious food in the cafeteria every day. The studios are open 24 hours a day, so it’s a chance to live and breathe art making with a group of like-minded souls. I took a walk before breakfast each morning, two days with blue sky, two with clouds, and one in the fog. Except for meals, I spent most of my time in the studio until bedtime.

8/6/16 – Rained out of the Maroon Bells

Lynne picked me up from the ranch last night. We checked into our hotel and had dinner at the Woody Creek Tavern, a causal place with a variety of food. Though the forecast wasn’t promising, we got up early and got to the Maroon Bells trailhead before sunrise. The rain started shortly after we headed out and without adequate rain gear we turned back. (This year is the first time I experienced morning rain in the summer here; usually the storms wait for the afternoon). We headed early to Lynne’s family condo in Fraser, stopping to buy ponchos on the way. They came in handy when we got caught in a thunderstorm while walking over to Winter Park for dinner.

8/7/16 – Byers Peak (almost)

When we woke up, we were thrilled to see blue sky (not what last night’s forecast called for), so we embarked on a tough hike, fulfilling Lynne’s dream to re-climb Byers Peak (12,800’) after thirty years. Unfortunately, the Forest Service moved the trailhead back a couple miles, almost doubling the distance and increasing the elevation gain to 3000’. We rented bicycles to ride up the fire road to the original trailhead, though we ended up walking at least as much as riding. We locked the bikes to a tree, and then hiked up along a narrow, root-filled trail to the ridge below the peak. We took a lunch break, then continued up the last mile. It was exhausting and the gathering clouds were making me nervous, so I turned back about a half-mile short of the summit. I strolled down to just above timberline taking pictures and admiring the view while Lynne continued to the top. Based on the pictures she showed me afterwards, I would have loved to be up there, but I wasn’t up to it at that altitude. We were happy to have the bikes at the end, covering the last mile and a half in minutes. Start to finish, our ride/hike took about seven hours.

8/8/16 – Rocky Mountain National Park

We spotted one distant moose, then came across a herd of elk on our way up Trail Ridge Road. That was exciting. We could hear the cries of the young ones who still had a few spots. We reached the top of the park in time to take a few pics before the rainclouds returned. We cancelled our planned hike and instead drove back to Monarch Lake where it wasn’t raining. We covered this four-mile loop in about an hour and a half; it’s amazing how much easier it is to hike (and breathe) on a relatively flat trail at “only” 8,400’.

We then stopped by to see Lynne’s brother, who lives up here part time, and picked up her dad to bring him back to the condo. He recently turned 90 and told us stories from his many visits to this area over decades. Though he now lives in San Francisco, he heart is still in Colorado.

8/9/16 – Home Again

I took one last stroll, down to the river along a new highly-switch backed trail, then spent the morning sorting photos and packing. Lynne drove her sister-in-law and me to Denver; it takes about two hours (outside of peak time). It was a great coincidence that we had flights departing 15 minutes apart. Lynne and her dad stayed in town to meet someone for dinner. My flight on Virgin America was much more comfortable than my flight out on Frontier.

Back in Colorado

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I’ve returned for an almost annual visit to one of my favorite states. The first phase of this two-week trip was visiting Nancy, my longest friend and her family. Details below pics.

7/27 – Getting There

 The space allotted per passenger continues to shrink. The tray table on my flight to Denver was so tiny it couldn’t hold my travel mug, the pouch too small to hold a book, and the seats didn’t recline. Given that my knees almost touched the seat in front, this was a good thing, however, it made it more difficult to nap.

Nancy picked me up and we drove north, first to her home in Fort Collins and then on to Cheyenne for a concert. The music was too loud even with earplugs, with way too much base. We left early (déjà vu, this happened last time). The volume was about right at the exit to the fairgrounds.

7/28-29 – Visiting Nancy’s Family

We cancelled our planned trip to a rodeo because Nancy developed a toothache and had to have a tooth extracted. That day I shopped and did a little planning for my next trip; it’s always great to have one on the horizon. The next morning I went paddle boarding for the first time in my life, with Nancy and Zach, her son, at Horsetooth Reservoir. I got up, stayed up and want to go again! I indulged in a pedicure while Nancy got her nails done, we tasted chocolate, and when out for yummy meals with Steve, her husband, and Zach.

July 30-31 – Road Trip

Nancy and I left her home early and drove several hours to reach the Crags Trailhead, east of Pikes Peak. The hike was rated “easy”, only five miles with 700’ elevation gain, however, the trail went up from 10,000’ and a couple days in mile-high Fort Collins was not enough to get acclimatized; I was breathing hard. We took it slow.

We had lunch in Aspen, then Nancy dropped me off in Snowmass where I will be attending an art class. I settled into my dorm room and finished selecting photos for this blog post.

Death Vally & the Eastern Sierra

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In March, I spent almost a week in Death Valley and the Eastern Sierra (sorry for delay; I got busy with the rest of my life and forgot to post this entry). I camped in Death Valley with twenty women, three men, and a cheerful nine-year old. The El Niño super bloom was past, but there were still flowers to be seen. See below the fold, i.e. after photos, for details.

Mirages on the horizon                                                                                                                                 red and ochre folds of earth                                                                                                                       warm breezes parch the arid land.

Ravens cry in the treetops                                                                                                                             coyotes yap in the distance                                                                                                                           a pair of grackles sings at dawn.

Desert Gold and other flowers                                                                                                                     dot the harsh landscape                                                                                                                           delicate petals protected in slot canyons.

Devil’s this and Devil’s that,                                                                                                                           badlands and craters                                                                                                                             golden walls and mounds of salt.

Three bright stars, among the millions                                                                                                       Orion’s belt.                                                                                                                                                   A nearly full moon, watches through the night.

Wind rustles                                                                                                                                                 invasive Tamarack trees                                                                                                                                 barely reaching tents nestled among them.

Another day, gusts                                                                                                                                     obscuring the view                                                                                                                                     coating everything with dust.

A row of photographers at dawn                                                                                                                 soft purple glow on snowcapped peaks                                                                                                   tilted striations of sedimentary rock.

Vast, not empty,                                                                                                                                           defined by wind and water,                                                                                                                           rapidly moving, and absent.

© Deborah Hall

3/25 – A Packed Car

I picked up Paget in mid-afternoon, then we drove to Oakland and picked up Carol. My Subaru was filled to the gills. Commuter traffic was starting by the time we left, so we didn’t reach Bakersfield until 10 pm where we spent the night in a cheap hotel.

3/26 – Furnace Creek

We got to camp shortly after noon, set up our tents, and then explored the valley. Carol has never been here before, so we took her to see some of the classic sights. No beautiful salt patterns at Badwater; they were apparently washed away in a big storm last fall. I wonder how long it will take nature to restore them. We got back to camp in time for a shower and swim before dinner: burritos.

3/27 – Hike in Golden Canyon

Though I’ve hiked in this canyon several times before, this is the first time I went all the way up to Zabriskie Point. It was a beautiful hike, definitely worth repeating. A thin cloud cover kept us comfortable. That night we shared a tasty potluck with our fellow campers, with Easter peeps for desert, and a lantern for a campfire.

3/18 – Hike in Fall Canyon

I drove north with a carload of hikers to this canyon north of Stovepipe. A totally different hike than yesterday, more sheer rock and not as colorful. We saw more darting lizards and pair of redheaded black beetles mating.

On the way back the wind picked up and the valley view turned gray. A few of us drove north to check out Ubehebe Crater. By the time we returned to camp everything was covered with a layer of dust (almost as much as at Burning Man). More than half our fellow campers packed up and headed home early. I went to dinner at the restaurant with Ellen, a fellow camper, and slept in my car, a needless precaution. A light rain cleared the air and the wind stopped around sunset.

3/29 – Death Valley to Lone Pine

I drove off while everyone else was still in their sleeping bags and watched the sunrise at Zabriski Point. It wasn’t the most colorful I’ve seen, but a pleasure to watch. After breakfast we packed the car and headed out, with our cracked lips and visions of clean sheets. We made one stop on our way out of the valley, for a short hike in Mosaic Canyon. I fell and broke my point-and-shoot camera, not the first time; I’m sure glad I paid for that extended warranty. We reached Lone Pine in the afternoon, in time for a scenic drive through the Alabama Hills to Manzanar, one of the Japanese internment camps. I hope we never repeat this sad chapter in our history. With one camera down and my Olympus running low on batteries, I shot many pictures with my cell phone.

3/30 – Alabama Hills to Lee Vining

Paget and Carol joined me for sunrise in the Alabama Hills. It snowed overnight and the Sierras were whiter than the night before. I love seeing the first light hit peaks. Then we headed north and went snowshoeing near Mammoth (covered in “Snow Weekends” blog post). I had a late lunch afterwards, a bowl of chili, and, to celebrate my birthday, a glass of wine. Afterwards they led the way to a small hot spring surrounded by snow-capped peaks. It was too hot to stay in long, but the view was wonderful. It was cloudy by the time we reached Lee Vining, so there was no sunset to see at Mono Lake.

3/31 – Mono Lake, then Home

I tiptoed out of the room before sunrise and drove over to Mono Lake. Other than one other photographer, I had the place to myself and spent a peaceful hour or two wandering through the tufa. One our way home, we stopped near Bridgeport for another hot spring soak. This time the temperature was perfect. We got back to the Bay Area before dark.

Snow Weekends

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El Niño didn’t deliver the anticipated whooper rainfall, but it did provide almost normal snowfall in the Sierras, which is much more than we’ve received in our drought-stricken state for several years. I was fortunate to get up to the mountains three times this season.

January 16-18 – Claire Tappan

Ten of the women in my hiking group stayed in a dorm room at this Sierra Club lodge near Donner Summit. It snowed every day so we left our cars in the lot and shoe shoed from the lodge each day.

February 5-9 – Echo Summit

Six of us rented a cabin near South Lake Tahoe. Most of us snow shoed every day. I also went down hill skiing for the first time in over a decade! I stuck to the green runs a bit more than the blue. I had a great time and hope to return next year.

March 30 – Mammoth

Last year I spent my birthday in New Zealand and Australia; this year I watched the sunrise above the Eastern Sierras, then snow shoed near Mammoth. (See upcoming Death Valley post for the rest of my activities this week).

Above San Francisco

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December 12

I didn’t go far, but I’m considering this travel since an airplane was involved. Alex finally collected on the present I gave him for his 30th birthday, one year ago today. We took a 45-minute seaplane tour over the Bay Area. The weather was not optimal, but the view was awesome. (I had to increase the contrast quite a bit to get usable pictures).

Thanksgiving in Virginia

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Nov 23 – Dec 1

It was 75o when I left Miami, 30 o when I landed in Virginia. Burr! (I forgot to pack a jacket and scarf, so I bought some the next day). My sister, Jennifer, picked Alex (my older son) and me up and drove us to her home in the middle of nowhere. I woke up each morning to the sound of a rooster crowing.

We took day trips to Richmond, Charlottesville, and Alexandria (too far, but Jennifer wanted to visit a dog breeder). We got out for a couple short hikes before the rain came. I spent much of time reading, sorting Cuba pictures, and watching too much television. There were ten of us for the Thanksgiving feast prepared by Jennifer’s boyfriend, Michael, including most of our grown children and a couple significant others. After dinner, we had a fun poker game (I lost). Their new dishwasher stopped working the day before Thanksgiving and the oven the day after, but Michael kept us well fed all week. Thanks!

Cuba

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I spent eight days in Cuba, traveling with ten other women, friends and friends of friends. We took an educational people-to-people trip with Globe Drifters. This country is definitely different than any I’ve visited. For the most part, development stopped in the 1950’s and it’s been decaying ever since. With the introduction of some private enterprises, it seems to be shifting from communism towards socialism, and with increasing tourism, restoration is beginning. It’s definitely on the cusp of big changes and it will be interesting to see what happens when Raúl Castro steps down in 2018.

Scroll down past the photos if you’d like to read more detail.

11/15/15 – Havana

We were warned to arrive 3-4 hours early for our flight from Miami to Cuba, but, even with the crazy scene of returning Cubans loaded down with piles of plastic wrapped packages, two hours would have been plenty.

It was relatively easy to get through customs and change money, .87 CUC (convertible Cuban pesos) per dollar after conversion fees. We were met at the airport by our Cuban guide, Mikel, and shuttled in three taxis to a half dozen casas. I’m sharing a room with Anne, one of my hiking buddies. We had the afternoon free so most of us had lunch together at Habana 61, a new private restaurant that opened within the last couple years. My swordfish was delicious, better than any meal I had in Florida.

We then split into small groups to explore historic Havana. It was sad to see so many once beautiful buildings in such decay. Hopefully the overdue end to the U.S. embargo will lead to funds for restoration of this UNESCO site. Music was playing on almost every block.

The group rejoined just as the rain was starting. We were soaked by the time we reached the restaurant where we experienced a crazy scene of people crowded onto wet curved marble staircase with waiters passing by with trays of food, wind blowing over rooftop tables, and other chaos. We were eventually seated inside and I enjoyed my first mojito.

11/16/15 – Road to Trinidad

 Breakfast at our casa was moved indoors due to more rain. It was the same government-dictated meal we would receive every morning – eggs, rolls, fresh tropical fruit (which we were assured was safe to eat), juice, and coffee/tea. We met the others at our rendezvous point. Our bus was significantly bigger than the van we were expecting, so with a row per person the long drive to Trinidad was quite comfortable.

Along the way we learned a bit about history, from the Cuban perspective. We stopped at Museo Giron, which documented the great inequities leading to the revolution and the Bay of Pigs invasion. The American invaders were mostly upper class Cubans who either fled or were asked to leave after the revolution. (Those who refused to accept the small offerings for their land and business holdings received nothing). Due to leaked information, Castro knew about the invasion in advance and the Cuban Americans didn’t have a chance. Most of those that survived were returned to the U.S. after their families paid ransom.

 11/17/15 – Trinidad

 Anne stayed in all day, suffering from traveller illness. I almost got lost when I went out to find her a soda, but was able to retrace my steps on the cobblestone street by the sights along the way – primary schools filled with children, pregnant women in a row of rocking chairs, and interesting buildings.

I later joined the group for a walking tour of the historic district, another UNESCO site – homes of wealthy families on the square (sugar cane plantation owner, factory owner, railroad owner, and slave owner). More than a million African slaves were brought to Cuba and many of the island’s inhabitants are descendants of them. I later purchased a couple souvenirs at the handicraft market, one of the few places to buy anything. They had small wooden items, embroidered linen, jewelry made from old silverware, and handbags made by crocheting the aluminum tabs from flip top cans.

In the evening we had a wonderful dinner on a terrace with a live band. My mariposa lobster and Bucanero beer were both delicious. I had heard that the food in Cuba was mediocre, but Mikel obviously knows where to find the best. It felt a bit extravagant knowing that we were eating much better than most Cubans whose staples are rationed and “supermarkets” are tiny.

 11/18/15 – Waterfall and Playa

 Seven of us took a hike to the Javira Waterfall in Parque Natural el Cubano. Though I didn’t feel a thing, I later noticed a large red swelling on my elbow. While it has gone down, it has not disappeared. After a short break, just enough time for me to walk back to the plaza for an iced Torquino coffee served with ice cream (yum), we boarded the bus again for a short drive to the beach. We went swimming at one beautiful sandy spot then had a picnic dinner and bonfire at another. It was wonderful to watch the stars come out while barefoot in the sand.

 11/19 – Long Drive to Vinales

We spent the whole day on the bus with a few stops along the way – a sugar plantation, Manaca Iznaga (an estate previously owned by a wealthy slaver trafficker with a tower from which slaves were watched), and the Che Guevara memorial.

 11/20/15 – Vinales

After an early morning walk (colorful casas, horses, bicycles, oxen) and another identical breakfast, I joined the others for a tour of a tobacco farm where we learned how cigars are made. Permits are required for this family-run operation to allow tourists and it’s heavily taxed. We had time to walk to the town square before lunch. After a siesta, we toured an organic farm where we were served a huge family-style dinner while watching the sunset. I showered before heading back to the town square to see a band, but don’t know why I bothered since I was sweating again before I’m got dressed.

11/21/15 – Back to Havana

On our way back to Havana we stopped at Comunidad Las Terrazas where we learned abut this model town, then visited the river where we ate yet another ham and cheese sandwich (it was either that or cheese and ham). Our dinners may have been amazing, but most lunches are boring. On the way to our casas, we stopped to stroll though Fusterlandia with amazing tiled artwork and walls reminiscent of Gaudi.

I had dinner in an outdoor plaza with about half the group, an ever-present band playing. We then met the others for a taxi ride to a club. We were the first to arrive at 10 pm and didn’t stay for the live band, which we later heard started at 1:00 a.m. (Needless to say, many Cubans are on a later time schedule than we are). Back in our neighborhood, I took a short nighttime stroll with Anne, Nancy, and Harley (for the first time we are staying at a casa with fellow travelers).

11/22/15 – Havana

Mikel took us on a walking tour and to lunch on the roof of Hotel Ambos Mundos, Hemingway’s first residence in Cuba. It rained a bit in the afternoon, but stopped just in time for our city tour in old convertible cars. That was great fun and our only chance to see other parts of Havana. We had another delicious dinner and then went to a theater performance at the Hotel Nacional de Cuba.

11/23/15 – Back to Miami

Taxis picked us up after breakfast and took us to the airport where I spent my final CUC on digestive biscuits. Part of me would have liked one more day in Havana, but my digestive system was happy to return to the U.S. where I can brush my teeth with tap water.

Florida

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I’m in Florida for the first time since visiting my grandmother in 1988. She retired to West Palm Beach and when I visited her that summer, I vowed never to return. The humidity isn’t as oppressive this time, “only” 75%. Perhaps the unusually high humidity we experienced in San Francisco this year helped prepare me for it. This is my first venture into the southern part of this lush green state. I’ve enjoyed living in shorts and flip-flops.

 11/9/15 – Getting to Florida

 The shuttle picked me up at 4:00 a.m., expediting my adjustment to the East Coast time zone. Our take off was delayed a bit, due to a mechanical problem with a cargo door, so I entered commute traffic when I left Miami in a rented Hyundai. It was dark by the time I got out of town, so I saw nothing but taillights as I drove the Tamiami Highway to Everglades City, near the northwest section of the national park. The animal crossing signs were flashing, but no one slowed down for the wildlife. Fortunately I saw no dead panthers or alligators, though cars kill many of them.

11/10/15 – Boating in the Everglades

Considering the time change, it was mighty early when I got up to go on a four-hour guided canoe trip into the swamp. The mosquitoes were swarming when we got to the launch site, but they didn’t bother me on the water. The trip was great fun, in spite of a couple chatty couples sometimes spoiling the quiet; the little alligators quickly sunk beneath the surface as we approached. It was almost as magical as the Amazon jungle and not nearly as toxic. My favorite part was going through mangrove tunnels, especially when I was the lead canoe and had smooth reflective water in front of me. If I return, I’d consider doing the ten-mile trip from the launch site back to Everglades City, provided someone had recently gone through the tunnels and cleared the spider webs.

After lunch at Camilla Street Grill, a pleasant spot on the water right in back of the Ivey House where I’m staying, I headed south to the Gulf Coast Visitor Center and took another boat ride (the best way to see this place is definitely on the water). I saw a few of the Ten Thousand Islands. We spotted several dolphins. Afterwards, I toured the Smallwood Store in Chokoloskee, now a “museum” containing an eclectic collection of old stuff, ranging from Indian tools and giant snakeskins to old jars and equipment. I enjoyed chatting with the proprietor. By then it was almost time for sunset, so I watched the clouds turn yellow, a very pleasant end to a great day.

11/11/15 – Big Cypress National Preserve

I considered canceling my pole boat tour, because I would be returning to the Turner River, but I’m glad I didn’t. This ride was more peaceful and better for photography than canoeing, especially since I was the only passenger. We were the first on the water and were able to see more wildlife. After the two-hour tour, I returned to the Skunk Ape Research Center, worth a stop, and got a personal tour of Rick’s collection of critters.

I then spent a couple hours driving around Big Cypress and stopping numerous times to photography birds and trees in the swamp.

11/12/15 – Ding Darling

I drove west to Cape Coral hoping to see lots of birds at the Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge on Sanibel Island. I did see quite a few, but most of them were too far away to photograph, and I’m not sure it was worth the detour.

11/13/15 – Miami Beach

On my way to Miami, I stopped for a stroll in a sauna. At least that’s what my 3-mile walk in Shark Valley felt like. My shirt was soaked by the time I got back to the car. For my efforts, I was rewarded with several birds, a couple alligators in the water, a variety of flowers, and beautiful clouds. My favorite sighting was an Anhinga swimming underwater.

It was too early to check into our Airbnb when I got to Miami Beach, so I sauntered along the boardwalk, admiring the turquoise water and colorful umbrellas. That didn’t last long; soon I retired into an air conditioned restaurant for lunch. I take back everything I said about the weather not being oppressive. It got up to 90o F (that’s 32 o for you Celsius-minded folks) down here in the land of endless summer – too warm for me, especially when it’s humid.

Anne arrived early in the evening and we walked next door for a mediocre dinner – lousy wine and salty food.

11/14/15 – A Wet Day in Miami

We almost got back from a morning walk along the beach before the rain started. Since the sky was grey, we changed into dry clothes and braved the Aventura Mall, shopping for shirts and ponchos. The rain long stopped enough for us to take a short walk in the Wynwood area, filled with murals, galleries, and cafes. It started pouring just as we finished lunch at Coyo Taco, so we ordered hot beverages from Panther Coffee and waited for it to slow down. We headed out during a lull, but it started again and we were soaked again by the time we reached the car.

Southern California

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I just completed a short road trip to Southern California with Carmen, a friend of Sibylle’s, now a friend of mine, visiting from Switzerland.

9/30/15 – The Broad

We left early to avoid the morning commute in the Bay Area, zipped down I-5 and reached Los Angeles around noon. We’d heard that The Broad, a new contemporary art museum, was sold out, but we went directly there just to see the building and were pleasantly surprised to find a line for people without reservations. Our wait was short (thankfully, since it was hot outside, in the 90’s) and the entry free, which reduced the sting of the $20 parking fee. We downloaded The Broad app, bought a pair of headphones (we have many, but none with us), and headed up a long portal (escalator) to the top floor of the museum, which contains most of the exhibits. I popped back and forth between a couple of the self-guided tours listening to lots of interesting commentary as we strolled about the spacious, brightly lit galleries. It was a pleasant afternoon.

Afterwards, we walked across the street and I took a few pictures of the Disney Concert Hall, a fascinating building designed by Frank Gehry. It opened in 2003, which shows you how longs it’s been since I’ve been to L.A.. No performances fit our schedule, so I won’t be seeing the inside.

10/1/15 – Disneyland

What fun! We got in at opening and left just as the fireworks were starting. I hadn’t been in at least 15 years, but overall little has changed, including the lines. The addition of FastPass allowed us to pre-schedule the most popular rides, e.g. Splash Mountain in the middle of a hot afternoon. Taking advice from friends who visited the park recently, we grabbed a ticket for Star Tours then headed directly to Space Mountain, starting off with two of our favorites, which we repeated later in the day (discovering that there is more than one star tour). According to the Health app on my phone, we walked about 28,000 steps. My feet were definitely ready for a break when we finally sat down on the curb to wait for the night parade. Gratefully Carmen drove us back up to LA in the dark. (Ideally, I would stay in Anaheim the night before and after Disneyland, but that didn’t fit well with our other plans).

10/2/15 – The Getty and Santa Monica

After two early mornings, it felt good to sleep in at our Airbnb in Hollywood. With the AC on and shades drawn, I slept for a rare ten hours and woke feeling totally refreshed. We walked up to a café for breakfast and then took a Lyft ride to the Getty Center, letting someone else deal with the crazy traffic the L.A. is rightfully known for. Another free museum with expensive parking, a great way to encourage carpooling. This amazing white complex up on a hill is worth visiting for the architecture alone, especially as the haze cleared and we were able to glimpse the city and the ocean in the distance. Here they provide iPods and headphones and we could enter the number of selected pieces to hear about them. One of the most fascinating was Christ’s Entry into Brussels in 1889 by James Ensor.

Afterwards, we took a taxi to Santa Monica. The weather was perfect as we explored the pier and strolled barefoot along the beach. It was late afternoon by the time we made it to the other side of town for an early dinner at Marix, a Mexican restaurant that served yummy mojitos. The Lyft ride back, now in the middle of the evening commute, took so long that I had the driver stop at a fast food joint so I could use the restroom on our way.

10/2/15 – LA County Museum

 I puttered on my laptop while Carmen slept in, then we packed the car and headed to brunch on nearby Sunset Blvd. It was close to noon by the time we got to the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. We say only a fraction of the exhibits spread across several buildings. I particularly liked Breathing Light by Ganzfeld. This light-filled room with slowly changing colors felt infinite.

It was mid-afternoon when we departed and it took 3.5 hours to get to La Jolla, a distance that would take about half that if it weren’t for the incessant traffic. The tasty veggie chili I ate earlier wrecked havoc on my digestive system, so after a couple urgent bathroom stops I purchased medicine to put a stop to that. When we got to our destination, Carmen and I walked down to an Italian restaurant where I watched her eat dinner.

 10/3-10/5 – La Jolla

Carmen and I spend a leisurely three days staying with my friend Dede, whom I met almost a quarter century ago at a parent gathering when her son and my youngest were in preschool. We bonded over monthly hikes. When she first moved to back to La Jolla, where she was raised, I visited annually. Back then, I’d arrive at the airport 15 minutes before my $49 round-trip flight with skewers of chicken in my carry-on luggage ready for a barbeque at the beach. That all changed with the shoe bomber. Between our travel schedules, it’s been a half dozen years or so since my last visit. Hopefully the next one will be much sooner.

We got some much-needed rain on our first two days, but there were breaks so I was able to stroll barefoot along the breach every morning, camera in hand, my favorite La Jolla activity. We also did a bit of shopping, treated ourselves to a massage and pedicure, and hung out at the house. In other words, we did very little and it felt wonderful. Dede and a friend joined us for dinner on the terrace one day, where we watched a nice sunset. On our last night we drive into San Diego and saw In Your Arms, a very enjoyable theatrical dance performance.

To avoid traffic, we left after the theater and drove to Santa Clarita, north of Los Angeles, reaching our hotel around midnight.

10/6/15 – Home Again

The five and a half hour drive home was uneventful: cruise control on I-5, shifting lanes to past trucks, and smooth flowing traffic on the Bay Bridge. It’s good to be back and out of the car.