Lake Geneva

Switzerland is comprised of 26 cantons, each with its distinctive architecture and culture. The majority is German-speaking, a few are French, one is Italian, and several are bilingual, including one with Romansh. Today I traveled to Vaud, a French-speaking canton on the northern shore of Lake Geneva. It feels like a different country; not only is the language different, the people seem livelier.

16 September – Lausanne & Vineyards

I stayed in Lausanne, one of the cities along the shore of Lake Geneva. I was going to stop at Fribourg on my way, but got a late start out of Zurich, and then, surprise, the train had a mechanical problem and we were delayed almost a half hour. I say surprised because so far the Swiss transportation system has run perfectly. If it’s not the best in the world, it’s certainly the best I’ve ever experienced (and leagues ahead of Muni). The buses, trains, and boats are on time, reliable, and clean.

I left my suitcase at the hotel and caught a local train back to Chexbres where I took a walk through the vineyards that hug the slope above the lake. It was gorgeous, almost too hot, and I thoroughly enjoyed the salad I packed for lunch, on the only shaded bench I found along the way. The return train from Cully was filled with people, coming from I know not where.

After a short rest, I took the metro to the car-free center of town. It’s uphill from the lake. The streets are steep and the area feels less open than Bern, with it’s wide streets in the old town center, and Zurich, with it’s river.

17 September – Montreux

I got a leisurely start and posted my Zurich blog entry before catching the train to Montreux. There I wandered the old town a bit until it was time to catch a boat to the Chillon Castle, the most visited historic sight in Switzerland. This 1000 old building was built on a small rocky island adjacent to the shore. After exploring the castle, I returned to Montreux by bus and took a train back to Zurich.

Bern

13 September, Sunday – Fondue and Art

After my climb down the mountain in Zermatt, I took the train to Bern where I met Sibylle at the meeting spot; a blue cube hanging in each station (she looked refreshed and perky while I was sweaty and exhausted). We stayed two nights with her wonderful friends, Eva and Marc, and their cat, Blitz. Sibylle fixed us a delicious goat cheese fondue, a first for all of us, into which I dipped bread and pears. That revived me enough to join everyone for ArtStadt, an annual event. The installations, small and often just one piece, were scattered throughout the downtown, in shops, basements, and apartments giving me the opportunity to see many old and interesting buildings.

14 September, Sunday – Suspension Bridge

The four of us got up early and took a train and then a bus, nicely timed together, up to the mountains for a hike in the Vallis area. We took a cable car to Belap and hiked down 500 meters to Hangerbrucke, a 124 meter suspension bridge just below the retreating foot of the Aletsch Glacier, the largest in Switzerland. The uphill side, to Riederalp, was “only” 400 meters (1300‘).

Back in Bern, Sibylle and I went to the home of another wonderful couple, Martina and Claudio. It was their wedding in the south of Italy that prompted Sibylle and I to meet in Rome. We enjoyed a yummy Italian meal on their glassed-in porch overlooking the Parliament building.

15 September, Monday – Murten and Bern

Sibylle was in Bern to attend a conference so I headed off sightseeing. I first took a short train ride to Murten, a town that takes cuteness to a whole other level. The small old town is overflowing with window boxes and partially surrounded by ramparts. On my ride there and back I continued reading Swiss Watching: Inside the Land of Milk and Money, an entertaining and informative book about the Swiss by Dicon Bewes which I recommend to any considering a visit to this beautiful, clean, and organized country.

I returned to Bern, Switzerland’s fourth largest city, and wandered around the central area. It contains a surprising number of decorative fountains, statues, and hanging signs. I rode another short funicular, came across a market, celebrating cows I think, and saw many bears, the towns namesake. Sibylle and I reconnected at the train station and returned to Zurich; the two cities are only an hour apart and the train was packed with commuters.

Zermatt

11 September, Gornergrat

OMG! Today alone was worth the trip to Switzerland. When I changed trains in Visp, it was cloudy and drizzly and I was worried. Then when I got to Zermatt and saw how gorgeous it was, I bought a ticket for the cog train to Gornergrat. It climbs a 20% grade to about 10,000’. Best €42 I’ve spent yet! (That’s half price with my Swiss Pass; this is not an inexpensive country). The view of the surrounding peaks and glaciers, including the Matterhorn, was jaw dropping. I hiked partway down, stopping about every 10 seconds to take another picture.

The walk uphill to the hotel, Alpenroyal, was more difficult than the hike. When I checked in, I learned that there is a tunnel and an elevator I can use to bypass most of the climb. I later took it down to the charming, car-free village, filled with expensive tourist shops. There I satisfied my rare craving for a hamburger at half the price of an average meal. But first I enjoyed a relaxing soak in a jacuzzi and swim in the indoor pool.

12-13 September, Schonbeilhutte

I woke early and spent a bit of time catching up on my travel log before enjoying the complimentary breakfast: delicious whole grain fresh bread, cheeses, yogurt, fruit, and beverages. They also had sliced meats and cereals.

I then headed up to one of the many mountain huts in the Alps, Schonbeilhute. This “4.5 hour” hike took me a bit over six hours. I stopped for many photos and had a nice chat with an artist from London and his Swiss friend. After climbing out of the trees, much of the trail was along a ridge overlooking the valley and the Matterhorn. I saw several types of colorful butterflies and one very cute green frog, none of which sat still long enough to be photographed.

Much of my slowness was due to steepness. If I had realized that the elevation gain was 1075 meters (about 3500’), I may not have started out. The last half hour was especially difficult, as the hardest section came when I was tired and the sky was threatening rain.

The hut holds quite a few people; I think there were able fifty that night. Hikers are provided a quilt, a pillow, and a spot on a mattress, five in a row; the room I was in could have held twenty. I’m glad they weren’t full, so there was a gap between me and the others on my lower bunk. I paid to get dinner and breakfast, but beverages, including water, are extra. (Supplies are delivered by helicopter). Most of the hikers were German speaking, but I found a few Brits and Canadians who had just finished the Haut Route from Chamanix with a French guide, which sounds both amazing and difficult. Over dinner I enjoyed a conversation with a young gay couple, one from Zurich, the other from Germany. Switzerland allows civil unions in lieu of gay marriages.

In the morning the valley below was filled with fog and just a few peaks rose above us. It was already clearing by the time I finished breakfast, bread and jam. I chose a different route back. The hike down and up to Schwarzsee was easier on my knees and provided more amazing views. From there I took a cable car back to Zermatt.

Zürich

Sunday, Sept 7, was essentially spent traveling. After one last walk through our neighborhood in Rome, we walked to the tram, which took us to a train, which took us to the airport. Fortunately we missed Saturday’s one-day strike and our plane left on time (inexpensive flight on Easyjet, with a strict one-item limit for carry-on). We flew to Bern, then took the train to Zurich, where we caught a bus which dropped us off a block from Sibylle’s apartment. We arrived in time for dinner.

On my first day in Switzerland, before seeing Zurich, I headed to Luzern because the weather forecast was good. Switzerland is a country of microclimates. I’ve been monitoring the weather and heading where it looks most promising. (The Swiss feel like they missed summer this year; they had more rain than in many decades).

8 September, Mt. Rigi and Luzern

I took the train to Arth-Goldau and then rode a cog train up to Rigi Kulm, a peak overlooking Luzern. From there I hiked down to a cable car, saving me a very steep downhill. It took about three hours in total, with a beautiful view of the lake much of the way. As in Nepal, the trail markers list times rather than distance, a more useful measure in hilly country. I then took a pleasant boat ride to Lucern, where I spent an hour or so strolling along the waterfront. It was Monday, so most of the museums were closed.

9-10 September, Zurich

 While Sibylle was at work, I explored Zurich, the largest city in Switzerland, with half the population of San Francisco. (This country is about the size of New Jersey with fewer inhabitants than NYC, about eight million). It’s easy to get around as the transit stops are clearly labeled and buses depart at the minute listed on the schedule. I took the bus for the short ride to the center of town then walked around the picturesque city center. I visited the two largest churches, climbing to the top of the tower in one and admiring the Chagall stained glass windows in the other.

 On Wednesday, I woke up with a neck cramp, probably caused by carrying my camera around so much without my waist strap. Fortunately, the perfect solution was at hand: Thermalbad, an old brewery converted to a spa, where I did the Irish-Roman circuit through steam rooms, cleaning, soaking, and cooling. My favorite was the Roman bath. I spent about a half hour in this large warm pool allowing the various jets to relax every part of my body. I emerged renewed and spent the rest of the day wandering through museums.

Rome

4-6 September

I’ve been on the go so much I haven’t had time to sort photos, hence the delay in this posting.

Rome is definitely a walking city. Each morning we ate yogurt in our tiny apartment, then wandered our way through the numerous twists and turns of the historic district. Like San Francisco, it consists of many hills with surprise vistas around every corner, except on a much grander scale – piazzas, columns (many Egyptian), cathedrals, colorful buildings, and performers. The street musicians were particularly good.

The central city feels like an outdoor museum and we saw more art walking the streets than in many buildings built to house it (the graffiti wasn’t impressive). The old and the new intertwine to form a vibrant city. A couple of the key sights, such the area around the Spanish Steps, were under renovation. A few others, including the coliseum and Sistine Chapel, charge admission, but there is no fee to enjoy the amazing architecture and street life or to enter the numerous churches. At the Vatican, we stood in line for a half hour to see St. Peter’s Basilica (wow), then skipped the lift and walked more than 500 steps to the top of the cupola for an amazing view. When we tired, we stopped at a sidewalk café for a light lunch or snack. Paninis, pasta, and pizza – they are everywhere. After all this exercise I should be in great shape for hiking the Swiss Alps.

We stayed in the Trastevere neighborhood, where I woke to the sound of the bells on a nearby church ringing 13 times every morning at 7:00; Sibylle slept in later. It’s a wonderful area within walking distance to just about everything, plus plenty of restaurants and an active nightlife (which I noticed more than experienced). My favorite dinner was pumpkin ravioli at Marco G, just outside our door.

Tip: If you’re going to the Vatican Museum, which includes the Sistine Chapel, go early on a weekday. This was by far the most crowded attraction. The Sistine Chapel exits close to the entry point for St. Peter’s Basilica saving you from having to wait in that line. There’s an additional fee to visit the cupola. You can reduce the climb to 320 steps by paying an extra two euros to take the lift (longer line). If you plan ahead you can reserve a specific time slot online. If not, you can pay extra to skip the line, with or without a guided tour.

 

Rome – Arrival

2-3 Sept, 2014

It’s amazing to be here, in a city I’ve heard about all my life but have never visited. Getting here was tiring. SuperShuttle insisted on picking me up at 4:00 a.m., way too early for a 7:50 flight, which then sat on the tarmac for almost an hour and a half due to an unspecified mechanical problem. When we landed at Dulles, I jogged through the airport, no moving sidewalks here, and reached my next departure gate just as boarding began. I was dripping with sweat in hot, muggy Washington DC. The flight to Rome had been delayed or I wouldn’t have made it.

After rolling away from the gate we sat on the tarmac for almost three hours, waiting for a break in thunderstorms. I was hungry and exhausted by the time we finally took off. I used the time to start reading I, Claudius, an intriguing tale of plotting and deceit in ancient Rome, which I enjoyed seeing on Masterpiece Theater many years ago. After dinner, I managed to sleep a bit, and later over breakfast (rice cake and applesauce) I had a nice chat, about travel and photography, with my seatmate, Pam.

Fortunately the thunderstorm delay allowed my luggage to catch up with me; it eventually came off the baggage carousel in Italy. From there another fellow Dulles jogger and I figured out how to catch the FL-1 train into the city. Jacqueline is here from Oregon to lead a watercolor workshop, which sounds like lots of fun. I couldn’t figure out where to catch the tram I needed, so I took a cab from the Trastevere train station, finally arriving at the tiny apartment rented via Airbnb around 1:00 pm. Sibylle was waiting for me.

After a short break we headed out and walked through the winding cobblestone streets towards the Coliseum. Every turn led to another amazing sight – here a cathedral, there a statue, a faded fresco, a fountain, ancient ruins surrounded by modern buildings, cafes, small cars, and scooters abundant. Of the cities I’ve visited before, it felt most like Athens.

Late in the afternoon we stopped for a yummy snack, a bruschetta, greek salad, and for me a refreshing green tea with ginger and lemon. We slowly wandered back enjoying the beautiful late sun. Sibylle led the way using Google Maps. We stopped for an Aperol Spritz, a popular citrus-like beverage made with sparkling wine, along the River Tiber, and later for dinner near our apartment. I indulged in a white pizza (no tomato sauce), suffering no ill effects from the Italian wheat. For a San Franciscan, it was a rare pleasure to eat outdoors in short sleeves after dark.

Frontier Days

July 22-27

My visit with Nancy, Steve, and their younger son, Zack, was bookended by two rodeos, my first. Cheyenne Frontier Days is the largest outdoor rodeo in the world. It was fast-paced, fun, and exciting. It clearly takes skill, determination, and daring. I just saw the movie 8 Seconds a week ago, so it made more sense than it would have otherwise (that’s how long a cowboy has to stay on a steer or bronc to qualify each round). The horses are beautiful and I enjoyed the photographic challenge, though I worry about the safety of the animals (the riders are there by choice). Wild bucking does not look like a natural activity and the calves seemed frightened by the ropers.

We also attended two evening concerts at the stadium. Unless you are hearing impaired, I don’t recommend this venue. The weather was perfect and the crowd friendly, however, the music was so loud that even with earplugs (provided by the usher) all I could hear, or more accurately feel, was noise. I can’t say whether or not the musicians were any good, though Brad Paisley was certainly entertaining.

One day we drove down to Denver for lunch and a visit to the Botanic Garden; it was the perfect setting for a Chihuley glass exhibit. On another day, Nancy and I returned to the Wild Basin entrance of Rocky Mountain National Park for a hike to Ouzel Falls. It was the perfect trail for daydreaming, in the trees, along a stream sprinkled with cascades. We got an early start to avoid the heat, crowds, and thunderstorms, with the added benefit of a parking space at the trailhead. (Summer is a busy time in RMNP).

I spent the rest of my week socializing, eating, sorting pictures, dodging dogs, petting cats and reviewing Zack’s website and Photoshop process. Nancy’s other son, Alex, and his girlfriend joined us for dinner on Sunday night to celebrate Nancy’s birthday. Thank you everyone for an enjoyable visit!

 

 

Rocky Mountains

Sunday (July 20)

The seven of us got an early start and drove up to Rocky Mountain National Park. Kawuneeche Valley is prime moose-spotting territory in RMNP and we weren’t disappointed. We watched two females strolling and eating near the Beaver Ponds. I would have liked a longer lens (or a closer moose), but thoroughly enjoyed observing them.

At the Alpine Visitors Center, we climbed stairs to a viewpoint at 12,000’ and then took a short hike on the Ute Trail. Wow, what views! As we continued our drive on Trail Ridge Road, the highest paved through road in the United States, we got lucky and spotted a dozen or more elk near an overlook.

It was a bit windy at the top, so we drove down over the pass and ate lunch near West Horseshoe Park on a rock overlooking a meadow. It was at least twenty degrees warmer than at the top. We continued on to Estes Park and spent a leisurely afternoon in this tourist town. I enjoyed iced tea lemonade with Karen and Anne sitting near the stream that runs through town.

When our hotel rooms were ready, we took quick showers, and then enjoyed an early dinner at the Rock Inn – hearty portions of decent food and a nice local musician. The place filled up. At dusk we drove back through the east end of the park hoping to spot Big Horn Sheep or other wildlife, but spotted only one deer.

Kawuneechee Valley

Kawuneechee Valley

Moose at Beaver Pond

Moose at Beaver Pond

Near the top

Near the top

12,000'

12,000′

Ute Trail - looking West

Ute Trail – looking West

Ute Trail - looking east

Ute Trail – looking east

The Hills are Alive with the Sound of Music

The Hills are Alive with the Sound of Music

Elk in Meadow

Elk in Meadow

Photographing the Elk

Photographing the Elk

Nice antlers

Nice antlers

Deer

Deer

Monday (July 21)

I said my farewells to everyone. Lynne and Debbie are taking three days to drive home, Karen is continuing on to Wyoming, and the others are driving to Denver and flying to San Francisco today. Nancy drove up from Fort Collins to pick me up. She brought Dave with her, a family friend visiting from Tennessee. (Dave met Nancy’s husband, Steve, when the two of them were in medical school). We took a long leisurely drive back to her home.

Our wildlife spotting in RMNP wasn’t as spectacular as yesterday – one marmot and a couple distant moose disappearing into the brush. We ate lunch at a picnic table near Shadow Mountain Lake then drove north and through Poudre Canyon to reach Fort Collins.

Marmot

Marmot

Lake in gorge

Lake in gorge

Abandoned wagon

Abandoned wagon

Another nice view

Another nice view

Moo

Moo

Photo break

Nice light

Nice light

Moose in meadow

Moose in meadow

Clouds and crags

Clouds and crags

Hiking Fraser Valley

For those of you who never heard of Fraser (I hadn’t before this trip), it is a small town near Winter Park south of the Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado. Karen, Anne, Sheila, and Canyon arrived mid-afternoon on Thursday (July 17). We barely gave them time to unpack, then drove back to Monarch Lake for another loop around the lake. I think they were glad to get out after sitting in traffic on their way from of Denver.

When we got back to the condo, I fixed Chicken Marbella, gluten-free noodles, asparagus, and salad for dinner, a popular choice. I packed a container of leftovers for lunch.

View from condo

Fraser Valley

Friday (July 18) – Rollins Pass

We drove two cars to Rollins Pass. It took us about an hour and a half to cover 14 miles on the rough dirt road leading to the trailhead at 11,660‘ (4WD would have been nice). We had planned to hike to a rock formation known as Devil’s Thumb, however, we were concerned about the gathering clouds. The entire trail is above the timberline and given a couple recent deaths due to lightening strikes, we didn’t want to take a chance. Shelia and Lynne sprinted ahead for a view from the next ridge, while the rest of us headed back in the wind. The short distance we hiked was beautiful.

Since we got back earlier than planned, we took a soak in the Jacuzzi at the condo clubhouse. I was a bit dizzy afterwards, which I attribute to the altitude. Afterwards we had a yummy dinner at the Tabernash Grill about ten miles north of here. I had lamb for the first time in years, my kebab came with a beet hummus and quinoa tabouli.

Group selfie at trailhead

Group selfie at trailhead

Lynne, Canyon, Anne, and Sheila

Lynne, Canyon, Anne, and Sheila

King Lake, Rollins Pass

King Lake, Rollins Pass

Alpine Sunflowers Rollins Pass

Alpine Sunflowers Rollins Pass

Anne Hiking Rollins Pass

Anne Hiking Rollins Pass

Wildflowers Rollins Pass

Wildflowers Rollins Pass

Karen

Karen

Saturday (July 19) – St. Louis Trail

We were on the trail by 7:45 this morning. It’s a good thing we got an early start since our planned 7.8 mile loop turned into a 13-mile out-and-back hike with almost 3000’ elevation gain. Apparently to reduce the number of hikers, the forest service put a gate across the road about three miles from the trailhead. Sheila and Karen zipped ahead and we didn’t see them again until we got back to the trailhead at 4:00.

The road portion was boring except for a porcupine sighting, my first. Once we reached the trail, it was beautiful, if steep. We started out in the trees along a stream, emerged in a wildflower filled meadow, and then hiked up above the timberline to the high alpine tundra. We stopped for lunch before the saddle, which gave me enough renewed energy to make it up the last climb to 12,200’. Anne, Canyon, and I took a break while Lynne continued on to St Louis Peak. After a short rest, I slowly headed down to photograph wildflowers. Lynne rejoined us after an hour or so, jogging down the last stretch.

Though easier than going up, our return trip was tiring. Anne and I both ran out of water and were grateful for Lynn’s water filter straw, which allowed us to drink from the stream. We met Karen and Sheila at the car. Sadly, they had been waiting for three hours. They had taken a different fork in the trail and gone to St. Louis Lake instead of the saddle.

Debbie was at the condo when we arrived. She flew out to join us for our last day and will drive back with Lynne. Anne and the others fixed a delicious curry dinner and we retired early.

Moose, on way to trailhead

Moose, on way to trailhead

Porcupine

Porcupine, not wanting to be photographed

St Louis Steam

Tree Knot

Tree Knot

Rest Break

Rest Break

St. Louis Sadde

St. Louis Saddle

Canyon on top

Canyon on top

Photograph, then rest

Photograph, then rest

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Enjoying the Meadow

Enjoying the Meadow

Stream Crossing

Stream Crossing

 

 

 

Into Colorado

July 17

I’m in Fraser, Colorado enjoying the beautiful Rocky Mountains. One of my hiking buddies, Lynne, invited me and a group of fellow hikers to a long weekend at her family’s vacation home. Lynne and I drove out; the others arrived this afternoon. It took us 20 hours to get here. We overnighted past the halfway point in Salina, Utah. The time flew by as we chatted about many topics and I entertained myself taking cloud pictures out the windshield. On the first day, we ate lunch in the car rather than brave the 100-degree weather. Colorado welcomed us with an afternoon thunderstorm.

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Yesterday we took a hike to Bottle Peak. Most of the climb was in the trees and I was quickly winded heading up from 10,000‘ . We were rewarded with a stunning view of Byers and St. Louis peaks. Above timberline it was cold and windy. Lynn continued to the peak while I wandered the meadow taking pictures of wildflowers.

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Today we got up at, 4:30 a.m.. so we could get to Monarch Lake for sunrise. There we did an easy four-mile loop. The mist was clearing and the reflection on the still lake was beautiful.

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