Michigan

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Aug 3-10 – MichFest

I attended my first, and the last, Michigan Women’s Music Festival. I travelled with another “virgin”, Erin. We camped with her friend Sharon who has been attending for decades. After 40 years, this event in the fern-filled woods of western Michigan is ending. For long-time attendees, the week was bittersweet, with many sad farewells. I’m glad I had the opportunity to experience this magical week of camping with more than 6000 women. The temperature was perfect, the mosquitoes were few, and it didn’t rain nearly as much as I’d been warned.

It’s hard to concisely describe this festival, something in between small, nurturing Elderfower and wild, crazy Burning Man. My fondest memories: singing in the choir, open air showers, outdoor movies with popcorn, entertaining comedians and musicians, walks though the woods, parades, random conversations with women of all ages, and a moving closing ceremony. Less favorite moments: sleeping in the car Monday night when the gate closed on our way in, long food lines, and the cold I caught (which didn’t fully manifest until I got home, but did contribute to the delay in this posting).

Aug 10-11 – Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

We left MichFest early Monday, before the first shuttle back to the parking lot, and drove north for about six hours, to the Upper Peninsula (a.k.a. U.P.). Having been in Michigan only briefly once before (to visit Kalamazoo when Alex was looking at colleges), I didn’t realize that it touches four of the five great lakes. We set up camp near the shore of Lake Superior in a town called Christmas, then drove out in search of waterfalls; there are more than a dozen in the area. We saw the coast just as the fog was clearing and enjoyed a stroll along the beach. The lake is so big that it felt like the ocean with waves lapping along the shore. The next day, Erin stayed at camp while I explored the park, hiking to waterfalls and climbing sand dunes. It was quite beautiful.

Aug 12-13 – Sleeping Bear Dunes

 We drove back to the lower peninsula and set up camp at Turtle Lake, about 45 minutes southeast of Empire, which is close to the midpoint of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, a long narrow wilderness area along the shore of Lake Michigan. (If I came again, I’d stay further north, somewhere near Glen Arbor.) We did my favorite hike on the first day, a loop near Sleeping Bear Point. It provided great views of the dunes and coastline, plus a walk through a forest.

Aug 14 – Botanical Garden

Our flight wasn’t until late afternoon, so we stopped at the Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park in Grand Rapids before returning our rental car. It was hot and more humid than on any other day since we arrived, so I lasted only an hour outdoors. Overall we put 1250 miles on the car, too much for my taste, especially since I was the only driver.

Visit to Colorado

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I just returned from another trip to Colorado, perhaps my second favorite state. I spent half the time with hiking buddies in the Rocky Mountains and half with a friend in Fort Collins.

7/23/15 – Into the Rockies

Robin and I got a ride to the airport (thanks Erin). We flew to Denver where we met Anne arriving on a different airline. We rented a car and drove to Fraser, arriving at Lynne’s family condo five hours after we landed. In addition to a quick lunch, we were delayed by a slow car rental line, commute traffic, rubber necking, and road construction. Note for next time: take an earlier flight and/or arrive on a weekend.

We dropped our bags and took a two-mile walk to The Library, a restaurant in Winter Park (decent food, lousy beer, and a raising noise level). It felt good to stretch our legs and begin adjusting to the altitude (about 8500’).

7/24 – Hike on Vasquez Ridge

We took two cars, left one at Winter Park, and then drove up to the Berthoud Pass trailhead, at 11,300’. From there it was a steady climb with many switchbacks up to the Continental Divide Trail. We spent most of the day above the tree line traversing through the Vasquez Peak Wilderness and Arapaho National Forest. The views were spectacular, though as the day progressed it became more difficult for me to enjoy them, as I became nervous of the darkening sky. We felt a few raindrops, but, fortunately, thunderstorms did not materialize.

After overshooting Mary Jane peak, we backtracked, and then bushwhacked down into the Winter Park ski area, making our way down to Sunspot where we caught the Zephyr Express Chairlift down to our first car. The hike was longer than expected, 10-12 miles; it took six hours, including only a few short breaks. We felt pretty proud of ourselves covering that distance after coming from sea level. Too tired to cook, we picked up pizza on our way back to the condo. Lynne and I enjoyed a soak in the jacuzzi afterwards.

7/25/15 – Hike to Columbine Lake

After a ten-mile drive on a fairly well maintained dirt road, we reached Junco trailhead in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. The weather was perfect. On our way up to Columbine Lake we passed beautiful meadows strewn with wildflowers and a lovely stream with a few cascades. We had lunch at gorgeous Columbine Lake, staring up at the cliff from where Lynne and a friend were rescued a few years ago. Still not back in shape after recent injuries, Anne and I took a break while Lynne and Robin hiked around the lake. Officially, today’s hike was only six miles, but it felt more like eight and our iPhones claimed it was even longer.

We had planned to drive into Rocky Mountain National Park, but the altitude was bothering Robin so instead we drove to Grandby and snacked on guacamole at a Mexican restaurant. My lime margaritas were the perfect complement to the chips and dip.

After a shower and short break, we had dinner at Crooked Creek Saloon in Fraser, then returned to the condo to watch The Heat, a movie that had all of us laughing out loud.

7/26 – On to Fort Collins

 After a bit of commotion due to a water leak, we three guests headed back to Denver in our now filthy rented Kia. This time, the drive took only an hour and a half, half as long as on the way up. After returning the car, Robin and Anne took a shuttle to the airport. Nancy, my best friend from high school, picked me up shortly afterwards.

We chatted during the hour drive north to Fort Collins, catching up on the year since my last visit. Nancy’s arm is in a sling due to recent shoulder surgery and she’s recovering a whole lot faster than I did after mine. We stopped to say hi to her husband, Steve and younger son, Zack, then went to one of my favorite outdoor stores, Jax, where I found what I hope is the perfect backpack for day hikes.

Later, Steve, Nancy, and I took a bus up into the mountains to Mishawaka, an outdoor concert venue along a running river, where we saw Asleep at the Wheel, a Texas swing band whose music I last listened to in college. It was a fun evening.

7/27 – Nancy’s 60th Birthday

To celebrate her birthday, Nancy and I had a deluxe moisturizing pedicure. It felt great, especially given how dry it is here compared to the Bay Area. We also did a bit of shopping, at another great outdoor store, Sierra Trading Post, and Nuance, a local chocolate company. I spent the rest of the afternoon catching up on my blog and reviewing Photoshop with Zack. For dinner, the four of us went out to a seafood restaurant, also named Jax. The calamari appetizer was particularly yummy. Afterwards we enjoyed watching The Hundred Foot Journey, a pleasant movie with great cinematography about an Indian family that relocates to France and opens a restaurant.

7/28 – Rocky Mountain National Park

 Though we entered the park before 9:00, the parking lot at the Bear Lake trailhead was already full and there was a long line waiting for shuttle buses. Instead Nancy and I took a drive through the park, up one-way Old Fall River Road (open only in the summer) and down Trail Ridge Road. On the east side, we took a short stroll around Lily Lake with lovely wildflowers. Spotting a moose and her youngster made our day.

 Nancy’s older son, Alex, and his girlfriend, Rachel, joined us for dinner at Rodizzo, a Brazilian restaurant that specializes in meat, meat, meat. (Fortunately they also have a hearty salad bar). It was a double celebration as Rachel’s birthday is only a couple days before Nancy’s. We were all too stuffed to eat much of the ice cream cake that Zack picked up earlier in the day.

7/29 – Home Again

I took a short walk with Nancy, Zack, and one of their dogs, Bella, before giving Nancy a farewell hug. Zack drove me to the airport while Nancy headed up to Cheyenne for an afternoon of work. I arrived home in the late afternoon to uncommonly beautiful weather.

 

 

California Camping

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I recently went on two camping trips in Northern California, where we are blessed with much natural beauty. 
 
Trinity Alps (July 2-5)
 
Traffic light on the long drive north
(except for construction before Weaverville)
Outside temp over 100
 
Great conversations,
in the car, along the trail, and at the waterholes
Familiar faces and friendly new ones
 
Tents scattered through spacious campground
Dried leaves and pine needles
Slivers of water visible through the trees
 
Scramble down to Trinity Lake, one third full due to drought
A flotilla of houseboats in the distance, water warm,
aroma of motor oil and the sound of jet skies
 
Full moon at sunset, reflected on the water
From my topless tent, trees silhouetted
and a few stars in the dimly lit sky
 
Long drives to trailheads at cooler altitudes
A doe and fawn cross the bumpy dirt road
Glimpses of Shasta through the haze
 
Refreshing swims in bowls of granite
Some wildflowers in bloom
Distant thunder, a few sprinkles
  
Cicadas turning on and off
The chirps and twill of birds
Beautiful silence
  
First Saturday in Weaverville
Food, music, and art at Our Space Gallery
What more do I need?
 
No fireworks and follies light
Enjoy the night
Heat Heat Heat
 
Loon Lake (July 16-19)
  
I had a wonderful long weekend kayaking, hiking and swimming in the Sierras with Blue Water Ventures. We loaded up our kayaks at Loon Lake, just west of Desolation Wilderness, and paddled to a boat-in campsite at the north end, called Pleasant Lake. Fortunately there was a slab of granite near the launch site so we could get our gear down to the water, about 30’ below it’s pre-drought level. I paddled to camp with Anne, learning to steer without a rudder.
 
Our group of 13 women, four of whom I knew in advance, was catered to by a half dozen staff and volunteers. We received kayaking instruction (I learned how to rescue and be rescued from a flipped boat) and were served delicious meals. It was a very relaxing and enjoyable trip with great company and perfect weather.

Sydney

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I spent the last four days of my trip in Sydney, trying to see the sights with minimal walking. It’s a large, noisy place, but fortunately I was only a couple blocks from the Central train station, staying in a nice apartment in Surry Hills.

10 April, 2015 – Opera House

I left Cairns very early and took a plane to Sydney, arriving fairly early in the morning. After coffee with my airbnb host, I took the train to Circular Quay (“Circular Key”) and went on a tour of the Opera House. The history of it’s construction is fascinating.

11 April – Hop On Hop Off Bus

I spent the day riding around on the top of a double decker bus, getting off at a few locations: “The Rocks” for views of the harbor and a stroll through the Saturday market, Paddington to visit the Photography Centre, Bondi Beach for a picnic lunch watching the surfers, and the Australia Museum which had a great “Nature Photographer of the Year” exhibit.

12 April – Blue Mountains

I spent a delightful day with Mandy and Jarred, who I met last year in the Ecuadorian jungle. They picked me up at the Wharoonga train station, about 45 minutes north of Sydney, and we went for a drive in the Blue Mountains. Since I can’t hike, we stopped at several viewpoints and took short strolls. I was impressed with their knowledge of local fauna and appreciated seeing a variety of forests. If I get back to Australia, a canyon hike in the Blueys will be on my list. Thank you both for a great day.

13 April – Zoo

After a short ferry ride to the Taronga Zoo, I rode the cable car to the top and slowly made my way down through the Australian section. I enjoyed seeing local animals up close and support the focus on conservation, but I was dismayed to see some parents allowing their children to harass animals and elephants should definitely not be kept in zoos. My favorite part was the Koala Encounter. I paid extra to get close to a couple koalas and lucked out because one was awake and moving about. (They sleep as much as cats, about 16 hours a day).

14 April – Home Again

I arrived before I departed, thanks to the international date line, recovering the day I lost on my way to New Zealand. I was sleepy all day, then slept for ten hours, nearly resetting my biological clock.

Great Barrier Reef

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6 April, 2015 – Arrival in Cairns (“Cans”)

Another big change, from the desert to the tropics; a wave of humidity engulfed me as I departed the plane in the early evening. There’s not much public transportation, so I took a taxi to the city centre. I’m staying in a nice small apartment booked through Airbnb. Easter Monday is a holiday here, so I’ll have to wait until morning to pick up a few items at the supermarket, conveniently located across the street.

7 April – Cairns 24 Hour Medical Center

I spent most of today walking slowly back and forth between my apartment, the medical clinic, and radiology to have my foot examined. Sadly, no more hiking for this trip. The theory is that something dropped on my foot a couple months ago, perhaps a can in the kitchen, and didn’t realize that I injured because it stopped hurting quickly. Hiking aggravated whatever it is, perhaps a stress fracture. Doctors orders: minimize walking, no more than a kilometer at a time on a flat surface, for at least two to three weeks. Looks like I won’t be hiking in the Blue Mountains. The good news is that swimming should be fine.

I saw virtually nothing in Cairns, only a couple noisy trees, one full of bats, the other colorful birds, and a large swimming lagoon near the ocean.

8-9 April – Coral Sea

Aah, to be under the water again, admiring the coral and fishes. I enjoyed living barefoot for two days. Gentle rocking of the boat, soft humid breezes, this is the life!

I completed six dives in two days. A fast, crowded boat took us out to the reef and on a couple dives, and then we transferred to a nicer liveaboard boat. My cabin, which I shared with a young woman from Holland, was spacious and comfortable with it’s own bath. I could have easily spent more time aboard.

Fortunately swimming is easier than walking for my foot, though I flipped more with one than the other. I hadn’t been diving for many years, so I signed up for a couple beginner dives. Had I realized that my certification is good for life, I would have taken a refresher course ahead of time and been able to dive without holding someone’s hand. Instead, I choose to snorkel most of the time. On the second day the current was strong enough that we had to swim continuously to keep from drifting back to the boat.

I brought a waterproof housing for my small camera and had fun trying to take pictures of the fish; it’s a challenge to photograph small moving objects while bobbing around in the water. The coral was more damaged than I anticipated, at least in the sections we visited. The Great Barrier Reef is the largest coral reef in the world, covering about 350,000 square kilometers, so I certainly didn’t see it all. Some portions looked like underwater gardens, so if we stop polluting our oceans, maybe it can recover.

I was tired when we got back to Cairns, and my body still felt as if it was rolling with the waves when I went to bed.

The Red Centre

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I just spent a week in the outback of central Australia. Flying doctors, school of the air, fly in – fly out jobs, this place is vast and remote. The terrain is gently undulating, rather than pancake flat as I imagined, and greener, thanks to rain in February. The growth cycles of the plants are not tied to the seasons, but rather to the rain, which is rare, sometimes not at all for a year or more. When it does rain, it tends to pour, overflowing dry rivers and promoting growth spurts. On average, there’s just enough rain for it not to be classified as a desert, but it is very arid, as my lips and hands will attest. (I used lotion for the first time since leaving home). Overall, the scenery reminds me of the American southwest, with lots of red soil and a smattering of fantastic rock formations, thought we don’t have kangaroos or camels wandering about. (Initially imported for transport, camels are now being exported back to the Middle East).

31 March – Alice Springs

As someone mentioned when I told him I was going from Auckland to Alice Springs, these two places have nothing in common except they both start with the letter “A”. One is a green port city, the other a dry outpost. With a population of about 28,000, Alice is the third largest city in the Northern Territory, and there are no springs.

It was a long day getting here. I got up at 4:00 a.m., which is 12:30 a.m. here. Jane, another of my wonderful women hostesses, picked me up from the airport at noon. We had lunch and then I explored the town while she returned to work. I started at the mall where I did a little shopping and spotted a dot painting, which I now regret not purchasing. I just missed feeding time at the reptile center, but got to hold a python. Jane dropped me at the desert park where I got to spend a wonderful hour walking from aviary to aviary. I virtually had the place to myself and wished there was more time before closing.

1 April – West MacDonnell Ranges

I took a day trip to numerous spots in this colorful mountain range with only three other tourists, including the same Aussie American I chatted with on the plane yesterday; he’s taking about three weeks to hike the Larapinta Trail, something I wouldn’t consider in this heat. Our guide was very knowledgeable and shared a lot of information with us, about both local history and nature.

I got dropped off at Jane’s home and enjoyed a beer and meal with her and her co-worker, Odette. They both assured me that Cooper’s Pale Ale is the best beer in Australia and I need not look further (so far my samplings have proved them correct). It was a thoroughly enjoyable evening, much of it spent lamenting that Americans take too few vacations.

2 April – Getting to Uluru

I was picked up at 5:40 a.m. (thank you Jane for an early ride to the rendezvous spot) for a three-day camping trip. There were twenty-one of us, the majority exchange students from other countries. There was also four people from Finland and a few Aussies, seeing Uluru for the first time.

It’s a long drive to Uluru, more than five hours, on an almost straight road. With a few stops along the way, we reached our campground in Yulara, the town just outside Uluru-Kata Tjuta  National Park, in time for lunch. Afterwards, we visited the cultural center (the land surrounding this area has been returned to the Aboriginal people and they manage it jointly with the park service), and took a couple short walks near the base of Uluru. The majority of this broad monolith is underground and what we see is one end of a giant rock formation that has been turned on end.

A light rain started right after dinner, so the majority of us, including me, rolled out our swags under the tables in the dining tent. Turns out the rain stopped shortly and we would have been fine outdoors.

3 April – Kata Tjuta

We were up at 5:00 a.m. so we could have breakfast before driving to the Kata Tjuta dune viewpoint. Kata Tjuta (“catta-jew-tah”) means “many heads” in the local Aboriginal language. (This rock formation was previously known as the Olgas). From there the sun rose behind Uluru, far in the distance.

After sunrise, we took a 7.5 km circuit in the Valley of the Winds section of Kata Tjuta. Other than my left foot, which has suddenly started killing me, it was a wonderful hike.

After lunch, we drove to Kings Canyon where we settled in for the night. Dinner included kangaroo steaks, which were too chewy for my taste. This time I slept out under a full moon. Just after I drifted to sleep, another camper spotted a scorpion. This led to much commotion and the scorpion’s demise. I rechecked the perimeter of my swag and went back to sleep hoping nothing would crawl on me during the night.

4 April – Kings Canyon

Once again we were up before dawn for a drive to a trailhead. We took a four-hour hike though the Zion-like Kings Canyon, a wonderland of sculpted red rock. Other than the first stretch, nicknamed Cardiac Hill, the rim walk was not difficult. I taped up my foot, took ibuprofen, and stepped carefully.

After lunch, camel burgers, those of us going back to Yulara boarded a very comfy tour bus for our three ride, while the rest of the group returned to Alice Springs. We made one stop along the way and reached the Outback Pioneer Lodge with plenty of time for a shower before sunset. My private room with a shared bath is both my most expensive overnight lodging and the cheapest room in town.

I walked up to the viewpoint near my hotel to watch the sunset. We didn’t get the magic red light on Uluru, but the sunset over Kata Tjuta was amazing. I didn’t know it at the time, but this was an unusual sunset, apparently caused by a lunar eclipse that I missed.

I had dinner with a couple fellow campers, a cook-it-yourself BBQ/salad bar combo, eating outdoors with a nice band in the background.

5 April – Yulara

There were clouds on the horizon so sunrise wasn’t spectacular. I walked around this tiny town, the fourth largest in the Northern Territory, visited all the galleries, and bought a few small souvenirs; I really like some of the Aboriginal designs. My foot was throbbing, so I spent the afternoon lounging around the lodge, repacking my suitcase (to fit in my purchases) and sorting through hundreds of photos.

Words cannot describe the beauty and joy of standing on the top of a red dune and watching an amazing sunset, especially while wearing shorts and enjoying a gentle warm desert breeze. I am a happy traveller! BTW, this trip has convinced me that I need to move to someplace where I can enjoy the warmth of summer wearing sandals.

At dinner I met a nurse from Queensland and had a nice long chat over a beer. She is heading back to a remote Aboriginal community for another ten-week stint in a nursing home. The place is so remote that a bus runs only twice a week, when rain or Aboriginal “men’s business” doesn’t close it. (Most aborigines, many separate tribes and languages, remain secretive about their stories and rituals).

6 April – Uluru

I finally had clear skies at sunrise and saw the oxidized rock turn red, nice. I was going to walk around the base, about 6km, but turned back a third of the way around since my foot was aching again. I strolled back, thoroughly enjoying the view. Kata Tjuta and Kings Canyon were both beautiful, but Uluru is the most peaceful. It feels good to be here. I could easily stay longer, but I’m catching a mid-afternoon flight to Cairns.

Sorry for the length of this entry and the number of photos, I don’t have time to edit further.

Last Days in New Zealand

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27 March, 2015 – Tauranga (“toe-rung-ah”)

I lounged in the morning, petting one of Gladys’s ragdoll cats. We went into town for lunch and a bit of window-shopping. I then hiked to the top of Mount Maunganui while Gladys circled the base. In the evening, I joined her and a half dozen of her friends for dinner and a Peta Mathias performance. Peta is an NZ cook and comedienne with a local TV show. She demonstrated how to cook a fatty lamb dish with black pudding, which I would never eat, and told humorous stories of her catholic school years. The show felt like a commercial for her cooking trips, but her singing was beautiful.

28 March – Tauranga to Auckland

Thanks to tips from Gladys and Jacque, my next hostess, I had a perfectly choreographed drive to Auckland with scenic stops along the way.

My first stop was Te Puna, where I took an hour walk through a quarry turned into a park. In addition to a variety of gardens, there were random sculptures and rusty equipment throughout. I next strolled through Katikati (“catty-catty”), appropriately nicknamed Mural Town. The murals, scattered about town, are mostly historical in nature. There is also a smattering of artwork and poetry, a nice addition to any town. Alas, there was no dark chocolate, a rare commodity in NZ.

I took a hike at Karangahake Gorge, exploring a few of the many trails throughout this old mining site. Lunch at the Native Tree Café was delightful. My third “hike” of the day was to a bird blind at Miranda Shorebird Colony.

Less than an hour later, I met Jacque at the Auckland Botanic Gardens. Founding member of a butterfly trust, she was volunteering at an annual “Eyes on Nature” event designed to reconnect children to nature. I arrived just as an energetic cultural performance was beginning, and then toured the gardens until her shift was over.

29 March – Tiritiri Matangi

Jacque joined me for a guided tour of this amazing bird sanctuary. Until a few decades ago, this island, a 75-minute ferry ride from Auckland, was used for pastureland and nearly treeless. Staring in the 1980’s, volunteers planted nearly 300,000 trees. They poisoned the kiore rats (used for food by the Maori) and reintroduced a dozen species of endangered birds and a few reptile species. I was able to see and hear many of them today.

30 March – Auckland

Jacque sang me Happy Birthday when I got up in the morning and later gave me a basket of butterflies to release. When she went to work, promoting reading in the schools, I wandered around the city centre, from Myers Park to Wynyard Quarter. My favorite spots were the Auckland Art Gallery, with a variety of historic, modern, and contemporary art, and along the wharf. To celebrate my birthday, Jacque and I went to dinner at the Sky Tower, the tallest manmade structure in the southern hemisphere. We timed it for sunset and enjoyed the slowly revolving view of the city. (Thanks for the suggestion, Gladys).

Rotorua

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26 March

I selected four of the numerous geothermal activates near Rotorua and spent the day surrounded by sulphur. A larger percent of maori live here than elsewhere in New Zealand and they own many of the thermal areas.

Wai-o-tapu – this was the most colorful thermal area I visited; it has a geyser that erupts at 10:15 every day, thanks to a package of a soap dropped into the top.

Whakarewarewa – about sixty maori live in this thermal village, which has been home to the Tuhourangi Ngati Wahio tribe since before Europeans arrived. I saw a cultural performance, took a tour of the village, ate a piece of corn cooked in one of the pools and a hangi pie prepared in one of the steam boxes the community uses for cooking. I also saw the geysers erupt. These geysers, which go off randomly according to nature’s whim, can also be seen from the neighboring Te Puia as these villages share the same geothermal area.

Rotorua Museum – this former bathhouse is a museum containing historic information about the spa, a short informative movie about a nearby eruption, an exhibit on current maori culture, and some contemporary art. Nearby, in the Government Gardens, I took a stroll around small Sulphur Lake to view more than a dozen sculptures based on the theme “The Returning Soldier”. After WWI, they came to the spa to heal.

Hell’s Gate (Tikitere) – a light rain started as I arrived and I almost had the place to myself. There are lots of mud pools at this one; I got to soak my feet in hot muddy water. After my loop through, my silver jewelry had tarnished and I reeked of sulphur.

I then drove to Tauranga where I met Gladys. We enjoyed dinner in her beautiful home set in a tropical garden.

Tongariro and Taupo

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25 March

Due to the weather forecast and logistics, I decide not to do the Tongariro Alpine Crossing as planned. In hindsight, I could have stayed at the Tongariro YHA, taken the shuttle from there, and done the crossing today; the forecast rain did not materialize and it wasn’t as windy as predicted. (The NZ weather forecasts are among the least accurate I have encountered.) Instead, I drove up to the National Park, explored a few of the sights, and hiked for a couple hours on the beginning of the track. I liked the vastness of the view and the beautiful low growing plants.

I returned to Taupo in time to go to Café L’Arté with Erin. This café is set in an adorable garden filled with mosaic artwork. We later picked up fish and chips, and a bottle of wine, and had a most enjoyable dinner on a picnic table next to the lake. Thank you Erin.

Onto North Island

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22 March – Wellington

I had a peaceful, photo-free day, hanging out in rainy Wellington with Trish. I bought a few pieces of New Zealand themed fabric, for the quilt I may eventually make. We saw two great exhibits at the Pataka Gallery in Porirua where we also had a tasty lunch. The first exhibit, Visible Women at 60, contained portraits of sixty women and their comments about life; their quotes were inspiring, full of wisdom and the confidence that comes with age, perfectly timed for my upcoming birthday. One quote referred to the 60’s as the teenage years of old age (that explains the recent braces); I prefer to think of it at the upper end of middle age.

In the other exhibit, Imagine Asia, contained New Zealand artists’ responses to contemporary Asia. It was quite diverse with some intriguing pieces. I tried unsuccessfully to find the book NZ Frenzy North Island after finding Scott Cook’s book on the south island to be a very hand guide. And I spent a bit of time on Trish’s PC, since she doesn’t have WiFi, planning my next few days.

23 March – Birds and Napier

Trish drove me to Ace Rental Cars and guided me through Wellington traffic onto the highway leading north. The windy road lead over a mountain and into the fog, which cleared just as I reached my first stop, Pukaha Mount Bruce Wildlife Centre. There I took a short bush walk past several aviaries where they are breeding native birds for release back in the wild. At the Kiwi House, I saw a couple kiwi, one a rare white one. They have reversed day and night so we were able to observe these nocturnal birds in very dim light.

I then continued my drive up to Napier. When this coastal town was severely damaged in a 1931 earthquake, it was rebuilt in an Art Deco style. I took a walk through the city centre to check out the colorfully painted buildings.

I stayed overnight with Sue, who I met through a women’s group promoting international friendships, and her partner Don. I enjoyed a home cooked meal and a wide-ranging conversation with a couple kindred souls.

24 March – Gannet Colony

There are two ways to get out to see the Gannett colonies on the privately owned Cape Kidnappers just south of Napier. One is a tractor ride along the beach, which goes once a day timed with low tide. The other is an overland drive across the top. Given the tide table, I had only one choice, which may have been the better of the two. The overland route provides great views of the peninsula and allows more time at the gannet colony, one of the largest in the world. Most of the birds, members of the Booby family, were chicks, getting ready to take flight, but there were also a few fluffy younger ones and several adults. The weather was gorgeous; I wore sandals for the first time since I left Moteuka.

After my tour, it was back in the car for a couple hour drive inland to Taupo. I made a brief stop at Huka Falls before meeting my next hostess, a fellow cat-lover, Erin. We enjoyed gin & tonics, a meal, and chatting. She has four grown children, nine grandchildren, and has traveled to more places than I have.

Congratulations New Zealand! The Kiwis got into the finals for the cricket world cup for the first time and there’s a lot of excitement around here.